Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
DRIVE THROUGH NATURE
Follow this road trip for dramatic coastlines, craggy paths and bird-rich waterways…
1 Le Havre to Le Tréport Distance: 143km (by car) or 194km (walking)
Sail into Le Havre with Brittany Ferries: less than four hours from Portsmouth, it is one of its faster routes. From there, the GR21 – voted France’s best walking trail in 2019 – follows the path along the Alabaster Coast taking in sights such as the limestone cliffs at Étretat, which inspired Impressionist artists including Monet. You can also crunch along pebble beaches, saunter through verdant meadows and pause for refreshments in harbour towns such as Saint-valery-en-caux. From there, it’s on to Le Tréport, a bustling fishing town with chalk cliffs that are among the highest in Europe at 106m above sea level. Next, head south to Rouen.
2 Rouen to Le Havre Distance: 138km (by bike)
Normandy has over 500km of cycling routes covering its coast, countryside and waterways. Among the many multi-day routes is La Seine à Velo, a new 420km trail from Paris to – depending on which route you take – Deauville or Le Havre in Normandy. Start at Rouen to follow the River Seine through the Boucles de la Seine Normande Regional Natural Park. You’ll pass orchards, meadows and the ruined Abbey at Jumièges, where the route forks. Choose the road to Deauville and you’ll pass the Marais Vernier wetlands (look out for migrating birds, frogs and Highland cows) and Honfleur with its famous harbour en route. Alternatively, pedal past the Roman ruins of Lillebonne to finish in Unesco-listed Le Havre.
3 Le Havre to Souleuvre Distance: 144km
Heading westwards, your destination is an area named Suisse Normande (Norman Switzerland) thanks to its rugged, wooded landscape, featuring jagged gorges cut from the landscape by the Orne river and its tributaries. Here, spanning the valley above the river, the Souleuvre viaduct (built by Gustave Eiffel) is a partially dismantled railway bridge that is now home to adventure sports centre, Skypark Normandie by AJ Hackett. Gaze down into the forested valley and the River Souleuvre before leaping into the void with either a bungee jump, pendulum swing or the 400m zip wire that goes at a speed of 100km/ph.
4 Souleuvre to Cap de la Hague Distance: 143km
It’s back to the coast now, with a loop into the Cotentin Peninsula, which juts into the Channel. Drive through the peaceful countryside and farmers’ fields to its northwest tip, where the Baie d’ecalgrain is a great spot for coasteering. Protected by a helmet, life jacket and wetsuit, you can clamber into inlets with the sea crashing below and jump into the dense blue water from the rocks. The unspoiled beach is the place to relax afterwards, backed by empty hilltops, where wildflowers abound.
5 La Cap de la Hague to Granville Distance: 128km
Head south towards the seaside town of Granville where the coast road skirts past ⊲
empty beaches, including Gouville-sur-mer where colourful beach huts are tucked into the dunes. From Granville’s harbour, a ferry can take you to Les Îles Chausey. Head out in a sea-kayak to see the wildlife that lives among the 365 islets (52 at high tide); spot sea birds, seals and dolphins as you paddle on the crystalline waters.
6 Granville to Cap Fréhel Distance: 124km
The mighty GR34 walking route follows over 2,000km of the jagged coastline from Mont-saint-michel around to Saint Nazaire at the mouth of the River Loire. One of its most dramatic sections is just west of Saint-malo on the Emerald Coast, so called for the sea’s deep green hue. Pace along the paths that stretch out along the gorse-and-heather-scented headland Cap Fréhel. Perched on the rocks at its tip is the partly ruined Fort la Latte, a 14th-century castle that reveals views of the cliffs below from the top of its tower.
7 Cap Fréhel to Monts d’arrée Distance: 155km
Head west into Brittany’s remote heartland where the region’s highest peak, the Roc’h Ruz, is just 385m above sea level. But what the surrounding Monts d’arrée lack in altitude they more than make up for in their rugged beauty. Climb the rocky ridges and peaks, not missing the most scenic of all, the Montagne St-michel (not to be confused with Mont-saint-michel). At the top of this rounded hill, a tiny chapel has been battered by the elements since it was constructed in the 17th century. The 360° views of the green landscape will help you realise just how unspoiled Brittany is.
8 Monts d’arrée to Crozon Distance: 60km
From there, it’s under an hour’s drive to the Crozon Peninsula at the far west of Finistère, where you can take to the water by kayak. Paddle in and out of the hidden caves and crevices between the cliffs and admire the curiously shaped rocks. Back on dry land, walk the heather-clad headlands on this crossshaped peninsula that juts out into the swirling Iroise sea. Stop for a picnic or a swim in the azure waters off the beach at Camaret-sur-mer.
9 Crozon to Lorient Distance: 133km
Onward to southern Brittany, where the gentle weather lends itself to coastal walks along the sandy beaches. Strike out to the Île de Groix with a 45-minute ferry ride from Lorient and hire bikes at the harbourside in Port Tudy. Spend the day pedalling some of the more than 40km of cycle trails that pass moorland, ancient megaliths, cliffs and coves. Back on the mainland, there’s also the curious Plage des Grands Sables, a convex beach that keeps moving further north-west due to the winds and tides, earning it the nickname ‘The Wanderer’.
10 Lorient to Quiberon Distance: 44km
Around a 40-minute drive south heralds the start of the Grand Site of Gâvres-quiberon, a chain of sand dunes that stretch uninterrupted for 35km and marked by a rocky
headland at each end. The dunes are at the whim of the wind and tides, shape-shifting on their say so. Tucked between them are lakes and mudflats that provide a habitat for much flora and fauna including rare orchids and the curry plant. Further south, on the Presqu’ile de Quiberon, a stringy peninsula that dangles off the south coast, you can enjoy the swell of the waves during a surf lesson.
11 Quiberon to Île d’yeu Distance: 220km
Next, the route curls around the coast to Vendée. At Fromentine, a 30-minute ferry takes you to the Île de Yeu, a car-free island where you’ll discover its low-rise, whitewashed cottages with their terracotta roofs. Explore by bike and see the wilder west coast, where you’ll find coves, rocky escarpments, the rambling fort known as Vieux Chateau and, overlooking it all, the Grand Phare lighthouse. Nature rules supreme here with over 760 plant species (look out for the rare wallflower) and almost 300 species of birds including gannets in autumn and warblers in spring.
12 Fromentine to Lac de Grand-lieu Distance: 55km
Birdwatchers will love the next stop too: further inland in the Loire-atlantique department, the Lac de Grand-lieu on the plains of the River Loire was once owned by perfumer Guerlain, who donated it to the state. It’s home to some 270 bird species, including grey herons, egrets and kingfishers, as well as birds of prey such as the marsh harrier. Explore some of the 72km path around it by bike, horseback or on foot and discover more about the area’s natural history at the Maison du Lac de Grand-lieu visitor centre.
13 Lac de Grand-lieu to Rochemenier Distance: 157km
Follow the River Loire east from Nantes towards Saumur to discover the unusual underground world of the troglodytes. The Rochemenier Troglodyte Museum shows how communities lived in the hollowed-out caves from the 17th century right up until the 20th century. Explore the 13th century underground chapel, farm dwellings and multi-roomed houses carved out of the rock. Elsewhere in the area’s caves is the intriguing mushroom museum that grows an array of fungi, the underground restaurant Les Nobles Fouées and L’hélice Terrestre, a sculpture gallery.
14 Rochemenier to Alpes Mancelles Distance: 171km
The route north from near Saumur passes the city of Angers, which is a great base from which to explore the rivers Loire, Maine, Mayenne and Sarthe by bike. Along each of the four rivers are cycle paths that allow you to enjoy the countryside away from the main roads. Pedal alongside the waterways passed vineyards, parkland and remnants from the Medieval times. Stop for refreshments at the various waterside cafés known as guinguettes, which serve simple menus at their outdoor tables, before continuing up into the hilly landscape of the Alpes Mancelles.
15 Alpes Mancelles to Caen Distance: 140km
Before heading home, squeeze in one more adventure at the Alpes Mancelles, a mini-mountain range that straddles the Mayenne, Sarthe and Orne departments. With some 300km of rambling routes crisscrossing the area, hikers will be spoilt for choice. Don’t miss the trek up Le Mont des Avaloirs (416m) for views over the forests and the patchwork of fields that disappear into the horizon. There are also mountain bike trails and tree-top circuits, and along the River Sarthe, you can canoe, kayak and fish. From there, it’s less than two hours north back to Caen’s port to board Brittany Ferries’ service back to Portsmouth, either overnight or for a day on deck and relaxing in their lounges and bars.