Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Find the rhythm of Shaanxi
A spotlight on Shaanxi Province’s ancient Chinese culture, starting with the fabled Hukou Drum Race...
Once the centre of Chinese civilisation due to its position right at the start of the Silk Road, Shaanxi Province occupies a vast area in north-central China. Travellers are understandably lured by its epic natural sights, such as the vast Loess Plateau as well as the Yellow River and its mighty Hukou Waterfall.
But it’s the remnants of the ancient sites that can be found scattered across the region and the milleniaold culture that makes Shaanxi such a compelling place to visit. From the bone-shaking ferocity of the Hukou Drum Race to old folk tales told through shadow puppetry and opera, taking time to see Shaanxi’s traditional performances will help you to understand the history of the region through the eyes of the locals.
The Hukou Drum Race
Drumming strikes a crucial note in Shaanxi culture. According to legend, Yu the Great – a pre-historic hero in China who succeeded in taming the vast Yellow River – was busy managing the floods, when a dragon created huge waves, threatening to ruin his work. The people of Hukou lined up along the riverbank, beating their drums in unison to frighten the dragon away and help Yu the Great catch it.
The drumming has become fabled, still continuing to this day and was even declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Shaanxi in 2007. To watch a Hukou Drum performance take place, visitors to the region can travel to the Hukou Waterfall. A vast body of frothing yellow water that swells to 50m wide during flooding season, the waterfall is around a four-hour’s drive from the province’s capital, Xi’an.
Spend some time hiking around the falls before lining up along the riverbank in preparation for the Hukou Drum Race. Watch and listen as over 100 performers dressed in white fur-trimmed tops with white towels wrapped round their heads and bright red trousers, adorned in matching red ribbons, take to their waterfall-side stage. Some bang drums, others clash symbols and gongs, while the sound reverberates off the riverbank, ribbons fly, and martial artists perform – all to the backing track of the pounding cascade. The sound is deafening, the red-and-white sea of drummers mesmerising, and it’s easy to see why the dragon from the legend was so overwhelmed.
1 Qin opera
The Shaanxi Opera, also known as the Qin Opera, is a form of folk singing and dancing, traditionally performed by the Han ethnic group. At over 2,500 years old, it’s the oldest form of Chinese opera, telling stories of ancient myths and folk-tales. Many of these stories are still told today, with over 2,700 copies of the plays still in circulation.
One of the most popular is the Orphan of Zhao. Often referred to as the Chinese Hamlet, it tells the story of an orphan discovering the truth of his father and seeking revenge in the aftermath of a massacre of his clan. The high-pitch
coloratura singing, unique to Qin Opera, makes for a stirring watch.
Top-tier Qin Opera artists have awed audiences with shows on some of the world’s most celebrated stages, such as at the Bolshoi Theatre and Royal Opera House. But, we think the art-form is best appreciated in the province it originated in. Try and see it in the Yisushe Theatre in Xi’an to watch it with the locals.
2 Shadow puppetry
Witnessing a shadow puppet show in Shaanxi will not only teach you about the region’s ancient stories but will also allow you to admire the artistic talents of the craftsmen who make the puppets, the quick-handed performers who bring them to life and the operatic singers and musicians that provide a soundtrack to the show.
The shadow puppets are made from leather or paper, with craftsmen patiently cutting out intricate details to create the distinct shapes and facial expressions of the different characters. With the clever use of light and shadows, hidden performers move the puppets to act out tales of the heroes that have shaped Shaanxi’s history.
Puppet shows in the region date back over 2,000 years and can still be seen across the region. Join a performance and watch traditional stories such as the War Between Chu & Han, Three Heroes Fighting Against Lu Bu and Judge Bao Settling Lawsuits unfold magically before your eyes.
3 Huayin Laoqiang
Huayin Laoqiang is a specific type of shadow puppetry that evolved from storytelling in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. The shows give an insight into various historical stories and traditional plays of China, such as the
Prime Minister Fan Ju of Qin and the Xianglin Mirror. What sets the Huayin Laoqiang apart from other shadow puppet shows is the ‘rock and roll’ style of the music, with performers roaring and chanting the words to the songs with gusto, accompanied by high-tempo music played by an on-stage band.
One of the best places to watch a Huayin Laoqiang performance is in Shuangquan Village where the art-form originated. Here, you can meet artist Zhang Ximin and join his class to learn the basics of Huayin Laoqiang and learn first-hand about the traditional arts and culture of the region, making for an authentic end to a revealing exploration of Shaanxi Province.