Outer Hebrides

‘Caribbean’ beaches, Jacobite history and virtual isolation on the edge of the north Atlantic

Best for: Dreamers, outdoor enthusiasts, linguists (Gaelic thrives here) and anthropologists. Route: Barra-south Uist-benbecula-north Uist-berneray-harris-lewis Why do it? To savour a 209km-long archipelago on the very edge of the North Atlantic, that feels on the very edge of the world.

Short on time? Cruise into Barra from Oban and stay put as this southerly charmer is a small and perfectly formed Outer Hebridean microcosm. Kisimul Castle begs exploration on its own island off capital Castlebay; don’t miss the eponymous hotel for impromptu live music. Empty white sand beaches, sea kayaking and hiking headline here, alongside planes attempting the world’s only scheduled beach landing. The flight from Glasgow is a time-saver.

Sail over to Eriskay with ‘Bonnie’ Prince Charlie and the SS Politician, of Whisky Galore! lore. After searching for Jacobite ghosts and any lingering bottles of that whisky, you can drive or cycle – this itinerary works for both – over the causeway to South Uist.

South Uist is joined at the hip with Benbecula and then North Uist, an archipelago within an archipelago. To the west, machair-kissed white-sand beaches burst with wildflowers in spring; birdlife too. Hills tempt, wee villages too and then…a whole lot of nothing. Nothing bar the birds and that feeling of time standing still. Save the best beach for last on Berneray (so fine the Thai tourist authorities nicked the West Sands for a promo) before the ferry across the Sound of Harris. Harris has some of the most exquisite beaches you will ever see – take your pick from rejoice-aloud wonders Luskentyre and Scarista, or seek your own stretch of sand. Chances are it will just be you, seals and seabirds, hunkering below hills forged by some of the planet’s oldest rocks. The east coast is home to the ‘Golden Road’, a singletrack adventure more rollercoaster than highway, opening up sparsely populated hamlets.tarbert is the island capital, with shops, art galleries and a new whisky distillery that does first-rate gin too.

Don’t tell anyone locally, but Lewis is actually joined to Harris rather than a separate island. They feel gloriously different. The east of Lewis has a real town in rough-andready Stornoway – listen to the music of Peat & Diesel for a rollicking introduction. Lewis boasts fine sands too – Uig is breathtaking – plus swathes of history. Stornoway’s revamped Lews Castle is a must, as is the Neolithic stone circle at Calanais, 30 minutes away on the west coast. Dun Carloway is one of the best preserved of Scotland’s ‘brochs’. Gearrannan Blackhouse Village is a restored crofting community, a window into a world swept away by the Atlantic and the tides of history.