Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)

5 DISHES TO TRY (AND WHERE TO SAMPLE THEM)

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1 Damper

A 65,000-year-old seed-grinding stone found in the Northern Territory indicates that Aboriginal people were baking bread tens of throusands of years before the ancient Egyptians. Traditiona­lly made with flour harvested from the seeds of native grasses and other crops, then cooked on hot coals, the rustic bread known as "damper" was later popularise­d by drovers (following the introducti­on of wheat flour), as it could be carried on long journeys without spoiling. Commonly served on Aboriginal tours, and also at mod-oz restaurant­s, it is now often made with wheat flour, with wattleseed mixed into the dough.

2 Namas

A light and refreshing cevichelik­e dish made from freshly caught local fish cured in a fragrant citrus and coconut cream mixture, namas was born out of the Torres Strait’s pearling era, which attracted a wave of Japanese emigrants from the late 1800s onwards, who would consume fish raw as sashimi. A popular starter in the Torres Strait Islands, namas also features on Big Esso’s current menu.

3 Paperbark fish

Cooking a whole white fish wrapped in paperbark – a type of melaleuca plant found north of Sydney – infuses the flesh with a deliciousl­y smoky flavour. Traditiona­lly cooked in a ground oven by Aboriginal communitie­s in northern Australia, this fish dish is now found on modern restaurant menus across the country and is typically flavoured with Indigenous herbs such as native thyme, lemon myrtle and saltbush.

4 Kangaroo

Lean, tasty and sustainabl­e, kangaroo meat is still one of the most important proteins for Aboriginal communitie­s. Traditiona­lly, the entire animal would be gutted and placed on hot coals (or in a ground oven) to cook slowly, which helps to tenderise the muscly tail, a delicacy. Today, kangaroo – available at Australian supermarke­ts – is eaten in everything from burgers to steaks. Just be mindful that its low fat content means it can dry out if cooked for too long.

5 Steamed pipis

Endemic to Australia, pipis are small bivalve molluscs hand-harvested from intertidal zones from southern Queensland down to the beginning of the Great Australian Bight. A staple for coastal Aboriginal communitie­s, pipis are traditiona­lly steamed on hot coals and slurped straight out of the shell. They are commonly served in a broth (similar to mussels and cockles) infused with the likes of kelp and macadamia. Look out for pipi dishes on upscale bistro menus.

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