Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
EMBARK ON AN EPIC HIKE ALONG THE ALPE ADRIA TRAIL
The Alpe-adria-trail is one of Europe’s great long-distance hiking routes, and a large slice of it runs through Slovenia. Here’s everything you need to know before you lace up…
The Alpe-adria-trail is the ultimate in slow travel. Meandering between the Alps and the Adriatic, it takes in three countries – Austria, Slovenia and Italy – and 750km of spectacularly green landscapes. But the numbers alone don’t do the experience justice; it’s what the Alpe-adria packs in along the way that makes it unique, as you hike epic scenery, explore boundless culture and sample the best of the local food and wine scene.
While you tread the Alpe-adria-trail, keep an eye out for its… Culture
Slovenia has culture in spades, and you’ll encounter plenty of it on the Alpe-adria. Make a stop at Šmartno, a beautifully preserved medieval town wrapped by stout walls. It’s instantly recognisable by its crenellated church tower, which is visible from far across the rolling hills of the Brda wine region. Another typical mountain village is Drežnica, which has a strong Shrovetide carnival tradition. There is also Dobrovo, centred around a Renaissance castle, and Bovec, where the Church of the Virgin Mary in Polje is decorated in magnificent 16th-century frescoes. At Lipica, you can even visit the original stud farm of the Lipizzaner horse breed, founded in 1580.
The Soča Valley has modern history too. It was the front line between Austria and Italy during the First World War and is scattered with monuments and memorials to this conflict. There’s an excellent museum on this era in Kobarid, while up on the Kolovrat ridge, an extensive network of trenches and bunkers has been carefully restored to create an open-air museum.
This history extends to the area’s many beautiful churches, such as the Russian Chapel on the road to Vršič Pass, built during the First World War in memory of the prisoners of war killed during an avalanche. But perhaps the most moving of all is the Memorial Church of the Holy Spirit at Javorca, near Tolmin, which was erected by an Austro-hungarian mountain division. It is exquisitely decorated, with slender columns painted in blue and gold, and has oak panels that open to reveal the names of the fallen soldiers.
Epic views
The Slovenian sections of the Alpeadria-trail come with no shortage of jaw-dropping views. The route enters Slovenia by way of a ridge walk along the crest of the Karavanke mountains, which gifts a fine panorama of the Julian Alps. Further on, you can gaze over the Martuljek group of peaks from Srednji vrh, whereas the wetland area of Zelenci Nature Reserve, just outside Kranjska Gora, presents a very different picture entirely.
Beyond the unforgettable sight of Prisojnik and Razor reflected in the surface of Lake Jasna, hikers will encounter sweeping vistas from the Vršič Pass (1,611m), the highest road in Slovenia. From thereon, it’s back down to the rushing whitewater of the River Soča, which the trail follows for several days, pit-stopping at the vast chasm of Soča Gorge.
Hikers will soon encounter Bovec, wrapped by prominent peaks including Mounts Kanin, Rombon and Svinjak, while further down the trail lies the country’s highest waterfall. Past the village of Drežnica, the route winds on through the rolling hills and vineyards of the Goriška Brda wine region. By the time you reach the desiccated karst of the Adriatic coast, you will have crossed a dizzying array of landscapes – past waterfalls, caves, forests, pastures and mountains loaded with history and legends. All these stories gradually unfold as you make your way along the Alpe-adria.
Fine food
Slovenia is home to a rich culinary heritage, and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to sample it yourself along the Alpe-adria-trail. This egalitarian route passes traditional inns and fine-dining venues alike. Indeed, the country’s only three-michelinstarred restaurant, Hiša Franko, lies just off the trail in Kobarid, where it makes the most of the foraging land surrounding it, while the two-starred Milka sits just beside Lake Jasna. Also look out for Kobarid’s Topli Val, which specialises in seafood – the coast is only a short drive away after all.
The great thing about Slovenian cuisine is its focus on local, seasonal ingredients. It’s a country whose dining scene makes fine use of the abundance of locally grown fruit and veg, as well as the wild mushrooms and berries foraged in its forests.
It also makes some great cheeses. Two stand-outs to taste along the Alpeadria-trail are Bovški sir (a sheep’s-milk cheese from the area around Bovec) and Tolminc (a cow’s-milk cheese from the pastures above Tolmin). You should also try the fermented curd cheese known as skuta, which is often served with potatoes (čompe an skuta).
The Soča Valley is famous for its trout, not to mention frika (potatoes fried with Tolminc cheese). If you love pork, you’re also in the right place. The Kras region has the country’s best pršut (prosciutto), while Kranj’s Kranjska klobasa sausage is an icon. And then there’s wine. Slovenia produces some outstanding grapes, and one of the country’s finest growing regions is Goriška Brda, known in particular for its delicious Rebula.