Florence, artist’s paradise
Katie Wright heads to Tuscany in search of inspiration
Sliding a large sheet of paper from a folder and smoothing it out on the table, Roberto Guarnieri is setting out the ground rules of art for amateurs. “The first rule is to enjoy, you must smile,” the retired architect, artist and co-owner of Studio Iguarnieri (iguarnieri.it) tells the group gathered on the grass outside the Villa La Massa, an historic hotel perched on a picturesque bend of the river Arno, outside Florence. The other rules? No judgement (of your own or others’ work) and if you mess up, it’s better to start again than try to correct it. No matter what time of year you visit, there’s no shortage of jawdropping beauty and artistic inspiration to be found in the Tuscan metropolis. “In Florence, there is a serious energy about art,” Guarnieri says, crediting the Medici family for “the proportions, the colours… beauty survives”. The wealthy dynasty who ruled from the 1400s to the 1700s come up a lot during my stay. Down in the crypt of the Cappelle Medicee a bronze statue honours the last of the noble clan. “She was a very important woman for Florence – we thank her,” says tour guide Paola Di Felice. Why? Because before her death, the Electress Palatine signed a pact that ensured the family’s many valuable treasures must stay in Florence for public enjoyment. Case in point: the magnificent baroque funeral chapel above the crypt, a vast octagonal space lined with elaborate marble panels in dark green, grey, brown and red. And, next door, a smaller, more minimalist chapel, the work of Renaissance artist Michelangelo. The famous family was also responsible for the Villa La Massa hotel. The secluded property features opulent but modern décor,
each room uniquely decorated. Closure in the pandemic allowed major renovations, including a new outdoor heated pool. The hotel is popular with guests who love not only the beautiful, leafy grounds and impeccable
service, but the proximity to Firenze (to use the city’s Italian name), just a 15-minute bus away. Recently named the most visited cultural site in Italy for the first time, the Uffizi Galleries (uffizi. it) are usually the biggest draw in
Florence for art lovers, but right now another exhibition is the talk of the town. A co-production of Palazzo Strozzi Foundation and the Bargello Museum, Donatello, The Renaissance is billed as a once in a lifetime retrospective examining the greatest sculptor of his generation. Open until July 31, the show traces the artist’s earliest works in terracotta, through to chubby cherubs and gleaming golden religious figures, up until the last five years when his working life was wholly devoted to building projects commissioned by – you guessed it – the Medicis.
How to plan your trip
Rates at Villa La Massa (villalamassa.com) start from €520 for a Double Deluxe Room per night, including breakfast. Price also includes use of the Arno Spa facilities (including gym, sauna, Turkish baths). Price includes VAT and service. City tax excluded.