Say it with rosés – English rosés!
By Richard Esling BSc DipWSET . Richard is an experienced wine consultant, agent, writer and educator. An erstwhile wine importer, he runs a wine agency and consultancy company called WineWyse, is founder and principal of the Sussex Wine Academy, chairman of Arundel Wine Society and is an International Wine Judge. @richardwje www.winewyse.com
Valentine’s Day. Loved by women, feared by men. What shall I buy? Chocolates perhaps. But does she prefer milk or dark? Perhaps perfume then - but which one did she say she preferred? I’ll go for roses instead, but how many? One is quite striking, but might look a bit mean, but 24 may be a bit over the top, a little too enthusiastic. Forget all these and go for the simpler option which is sure to please and much easier to select - wine.
To make an impact on the love of your life, thoughtfulness is of paramount importance. The over used expression
‘it’s the thought that counts’, doesn’t cut the mustard when it comes to Valentines. Make no mistake, it’s the present.
Something bubbly and something pink always sends the right message, but to be really thoughtful, forget champagne (for once) and definitely forget prosecco (always) and go for something closer to home - English pink fizz. Brimming over with quality, character and sophistication, the sparkling wines of England are made by the same method as champagne itself.
It is now widely considered amongs wine aficionados that England is fast becoming one of the new Fine Wine regions of the world. Standing up to some of the best sparklers on the planet in blind tastings, a raft of gold and silver medals won in international competitions underpins this theory. Quantity is also increasing dramatically going from five million bottles in recent years to 15 million bottles in the bumper 2018 year. With more than two and a half million vines planted in the last two years, which have yet to come into production, the quantity of wine produced is set to rocket.
The majority of English wine production is now for sparkling, since the climate is ideal for making fine quality sparkling wine.
Global warming has undoubtedly helped and optimum growing conditions are now possible in southern England, aided by the warming effect of the Gulf Stream and conducive soil conditions.
So, when only the best will do, English sparkling wine is right up there. While there are now quite a number to choose from and all of them are really good, here are three I can particularly recommend.
First up is a newcomer on the scene, released just last year. This is Rathfinny Rose 2015, from a very large new estate near Eastbourne. With plans for expansion of the vineyard to more than 400 acres, with a potential production of a million bottles, this is definitely one to look out for in future years. Elegant and zesty, with strawberry flavours and a long delicate finish. The first vines were planted by the owners Sarah and Mark Driver in 2012 and in a few years, it is set to become the largest vineyard in England. Very limited supplies as only 5,100 bottles were produced, to huge critical acclaim. Harvey Nicholls may still have some at £51 a bottle.
My two other recommendations have been around a little longer. Jenkyn Place Rose hails from an estate in Hampshire, with vines first planted in 2004. Dermot Sugrue, considered by many to be one of England’s top winemakers, produces a deliciously elegant and refreshing sparkling rose, with notes of toasted brioche and pastry from ageing 30 months on the lees. Track it down at Hawkins Bros shop in Milford, just off the A3. £35 ish a bottle.
And last but by no means least is the Fitzrovia Rose from Ridgeview, an estate near Ditchling established more than 20 years ago and producing a range of top-class sparkling wines. Sophisticated and intense, with raspberries, honey and citrus notes. Waitrose £35.
Don’t forget. Valentine’s, like Black Friday, doesn’t last just one day!