Family-owned Bodega makes best Manzanilla
Founded in 1792 in Sanlucar de Barrameda in the far south of Spain, Bodegas Hidalgo is one of the oldest sherry producers in existence. Furthermore, it is still family run, owned and managed today by the eighth generation.
Owning over 250 acres of their own vineyards, they have total control over the quality of the grapes produced, much of the vineyard being planted on the ‘albariza’ soil which is rich in minerals and retains water. The latter is hugely important currently due to global warming, this region having been in a drought situation since 2018.
The siting of the vineyards and their unique terroir are part of the story of Hidalgo’s great quality, but equally important is the winery. Located near the sea and the river mouth, the winery built in 1850 is of great height, tempering the summer heat and combined with the maritime location, high humidity and a mild temperature are achieved – perfect conditions for producing the best Manzanilla. The wines are aged in a solera system in the Bodega under the natural layer of ‘flor’ yeast, which imparts its particular aromas and flavours, at the same time as preventing oxidation.
The very special climate of Sanlucar de Barrameda, is more humid than the surrounding region and also protected from the hot East wind. The Flor yeast thrives under these conditions and the sea breezes impart a subtle salinity to the maturing wines. Hidalgo La Gitana is benchmark Manzanilla, aged for an average five years in solera, with subtle salinity, great finesse and bone dry, with virtually no residual sugar. The ‘En Rama’ version is about one year older on average and is drawn straight from the cask, with no filtering or stabilisation. It is the purest style of Manzanilla but is not destined to keep longer than six to nine months after bottling.
Bodegas Hidalgo also produces an aged Manzanilla called Pastrana, with an average age of 12 years. With deeper colour and fuller aromas and flavours, it is a single vineyard manzanilla named after the vineyard. Full, long flavours on the palate, with hints of hazelnuts and almonds. Very good with full flavoured foods and apparently excellent with oysters, although as yet untried by myself!
The company also produced some other styles of sherry, alongside the world-renowned Manzanilla. A fuller style of sherry is the Amontillado Seco Napoleon, popular with the French army during the early nineteenth century and thus given the name Napoleon. Keeping the politics on an even keel, another style of sherry is Palo Cortado Wellington, the British also being very much involved in the Peninsular Wars.
Sherries are great wines to drink on their own but are also superb matched to different dishes. According to Fermin Hidalgo, one of the current managing members of the family, Fino and Manzanilla are good with things that swim, Amontillado with things that fly (or have wings) and Oloroso and Palo Cortado with things that walk! In a recent tasting, he also commented that technology has helped with the quality of sherry and that the best sherries ever produced are now.
Look out for La Gitana and Pastrana in Waitrose and other supermarkets and independent merchants. The Amontillado and Palo Cortado can be tracked down from specialists on-line.