Western Daily Press (Saturday)
CULTURED BUTTER
1 litre (1 quart) 40% fat high-quality double (thick) cream 100ml (3½fl oz) sour cream, crème fraîche or yogurt, which is the starter rock salt, to taste (approx. 20g/¾oz)
Makes about 500g (1lb 2oz) butter and an equal amount cultured buttermilk
In a large and spotlessly clean bowl, mix together your cream and starter (sour cream, crème fraîche or yogurt), stirring well to make sure the starter is fully incorporated. Cover the bowl with muslin and leave at room temperature (about 25ºC/77ºF) for 20 hours. When the time is up replace the muslin with plastic wrap/clingfilm and chill in the fridge for a further 20 hours.
Remove the cultured cream from the fridge and leave it at room temperature for about an hour, or until it has warmed to around 8–14ºC (46–57ºF). This chilling and warming encourages the bacteria to develop and the cream to ferment.
Now we’re ready to churn. Using an electric stand mixer or handheld beaters on medium-high speed (or even whisking by hand if you’ve got arms like an ox) begin to whisk your cultured cream. It’s important to have your bowl no more than half full, as the cream will expand before it splits.
When the cream completely splits to form yellow globules (called popcorn butter) and liquid (buttermilk), strain through a sieve, reserving both the popcorn butter and the buttermilk. This cultured buttermilk will keep for 12 days in the fridge.
Quickly knead the popcorn butter on a cold, clean surface by working it with the heels of your hands, squeezing out any remaining buttermilk until all the moisture has been removed from your butter.
Season with salt to taste. Then hand-knead the butter again to release any final excess of moisture.
The cultured butter will keep for up to three weeks in the fridge, and will continue to mature and develop over that time.
GRANT HARRINGTON’S CULTURED BUTTER VARIATIONS
Wild Garlic Butter
When in season between March and June, wild garlic is easy to find in most Northern European woodlands, and it offers an abundance of pungent deliciousness. This butter is my favourite way of preserving the fresh garlic flavour.
Once blended and rolled into a log, it can be easily frozen for use throughout the year. Outstandingly simple and satisfying stirred through hot pasta. Makes about 200g (7oz)
60g (2oz) wild garlic leaves (ramsons), finely chopped
200g (7oz) cultured butter, softened
Fold the wild garlic into the butter. Place on a piece of plastic wrap/clingfilm and roll into a log, then twist and tie the ends to seal. Freeze until needed. The butter will keep for up to 3 weeks in the fridge, and will continue to mature and develop over that time.
Seaweed Butter
Seaweed types vary, this recipe works well with pepper dulse, which can be foraged in the UK and dried at home. However, a high-quality nori from a Japanese food supplier can be just as rich and savoury. This is an incredible finishing butter atop fresh fish – try it with steamed haddock and you’ll be sold. Makes about 200g (7oz)
30g (1oz) finely chopped dried seaweed
200g (7oz) cultured butter, softened
Fold the seaweed into room temperature butter using the back of a spoon. Place on a piece of plastic wrap/clingfilm and roll into a log, then twist and tie the ends to seal. Freeze until needed. The butter will keep for up to three weeks in the fridge, and will continue to mature and develop.