Menswear fashion guru and innovator

NINO Cerruti, the Italian fashion designer was credited with revolutionising menswear in the 1960s and gave Giorgio Armani his first fashion break.

Cerruti, who has died aged 91, inherited the family textile business, based in the city of Biella in the Piedmont region, at the age of 20, on his father’s death in 1950.

He launched his first menswear company, Hitman, in 1957 near Milan, dedicated to creating sartorial elegance on an industrial scale and becoming part of the nascent men’s ready-to-wear sector.

Armani was hired as a young talent at the Hitman factory in the mid1960s.

Armani recalled Cerruti as a creative entrepreneur with “an acute eye, a true curiosity, the ability to dare’,’ adding that “his gentle way of being authoritative, even authoritarian” would be missed.

“Even if our contacts thinned with the years, I have always considered him one of the people who has had a real and positive influence on my life,” Armani said in a statement.

“From him, I learned not only the taste for sartorial softness, but also the importance of a well-rounded vision, as a designer and as an entrepreneur.”

In 1967, Cerruti founded the luxury menswear fashion house Cerruti 1881 in Paris, then the international fashion capital, while maintaining production in Italy.

The softened silhouette, use of colours and the attention to both innovative design and tradition won clients like French film star Jean-Paul Belmondo.

Soon, Cerruti was in demand in Hollywood, with his designs worn on and off screen by such stars as Michael Douglas in Basic Instinct, Richard Gere in Pretty Woman and Tom Hanks in Philadelphia.

Cerutti also launched a womenswear line as well as perfumes, watches, accessories and leather goods.

He also at one point was the designer for the Ferrari Formula 1 team.

Cerruti sold the company in the early 2000s, giving up also the design role.

But he never severed ties with the fashion house, even as he turned his focus to the textile business, taking a front-row seat at Paris runway shows.

Carlo Capasa, president of Italy’s fashion chamber, remembered Cerruti as “a great innovator” who was also “one of Italy’s chicest men”.

“He was the first to understand the importance of creativity in menswear and to give space to a young designer of immense talent like Giorgio Armani, changing the very criteria of how to dress,” Capasa said.

Michel Euler > American-Greek designer Peter Speliopoulos, left, and Nino Cerruti talk on the catwalk after their fashion show in Paris in March 2001