The reds at the heart of Spain
straight off the vine
REgulaR readers of this column will know of my affection for Spanish wines. I have been lucky enough to have visited a few regions and have even been made a Cofradía de los Mayorales del Vino de Valdepeñas at the Valdepeñas wine festival in a memorable trip to this great region in the heart of Spain.
Tempranillo isone of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world. It is the backbone of Spain’s most famous red wine Rioja, but is just as important in the the stunning – and iconic – wines of Ribera del Duero, as well as the aforementioned wines of Valdepeñas.
The other variety that plays just as important a role is garnacha, which can be found all around Spain. In its French guise – grenache – it is the main player of the great wines of the Rhône Valley, but I’m concentrating on a few Spanish examples.
Starting with some wines with tempranillo at their heart from the alavesa region, the MaISulaN 12, RIoja (£15.95, ultracomida and Curado Bar, Cardiff) is certainly a different, more modern approach to production.
You know you are into funky territory with the wine with but a simple glance at its label – modern, edgy and youthful.
This biodynamic wine has the planet’s best interest at heart, with no pesticides, irrigation or fertilisers used in the farming process of the tempranillo and graciano used in this blend.
The nose has warming purple fruits with some hedgerow fruit carrying aromas of herbs and spices.
In the mouth, the fruit is front and centre, with the graciano adding smooth notes to the crunchy midpalate. The 12 months of aging adds interest but does not dominate the main event, instead seasoning the wine.
From the immense alejandro Fernandez stable that brought us the great wines of Pesquera – responsible for putting the wines of Ribera del Duero firmly on the map – comes the CoNDaDo DE HaZa, RIBERa DEl DuERo, CRIaNZa (£18.99, Fine Wines Direct ltd,
Cardiff). The 100% tempranillo has had around 18 months in american oak, giving the wine the most defined caramel wood tones through the bouquet, lifting the black fruits out of the glass.
In the mouth, the dark berry and cherry fruit carry some spice tones and a little balsamic character through the mid-palate.
as the wine opens up, all manner of tertiary notes come wading in, from some savoury tobacco to a smidge of smoky liquorice on the finish.
Tannins are firm but integrated and add still more structure to an already crowded flavour profile.
I’d recommend decanting this wine an hour before serving to give all the secondary flavours time to do their thing.
This is a classically-styled Spanish red that continues to delight and is a standard-bearer for the region.
Moving away from Spain, a country that is having a good crack at this hugely popular variety is australia.
Hancock & Hancock Wines is part of Robert oatley Vineyards, which was created by the late, great australian wine legend Bob oatley in 2006.
Bob was most famous for founding Rosemount Estate – probably my first exposure to oz wines.
The HaNCoCK & HaNCoCK, TEMPRaNIllo 2019 (£15, Connollys Wine, Vino Wines) comes from the undulating slopes of the popular region Mclaren Vale in south australia.
The first thing that is evident is the colour in the glass, the deepest hue promising a real mouth
It is the backbone of Spain’s most famous red wine Rioja, but is just as important in the the stunning – and iconic – wines of Ribera del Duero, as well as the aforementioned wines of
Valdepeñas
filler.
Take a big whiff and, yes, the richest blackberry and dark cherry fruit aromas are showy and ripe on the nose, with a touch of spice in there too.
In the mouth, the fruit has plenty of savoury structure throughout with secondary notes of tobacco and mocha.
There is fine texture through the mid-palate, with integrated tannins adding more body and weight, and decent alcohol making this an ideal fireside red. It just goes to show that good tempranillo can exist outside of the Iberian peninsula.
From the Montsant region in Catalunya comes the joSEP gRau ‘FIguERalS’ 2017, MoNTSaNT (£34, ultracomida and Curado Bar, Cardiff) which uses the easy-ripening power of garnacha to create deep, almost meaty tones to the rich dark fruits, with a touch of sweet spice in there as well.
on the palate, the sweet entry to the crisp, crunchy fruit is intense and mouth-filling. The 14 months or so in austrian oak doesn’t mask in any way the integrated tannins and brisk acidity.
Yet another cracking drop to add to the ever-growing library of fine Montsant reds.
garnacha plays a starring role in the classy HaCIENDa gRIMoN ‘DESVElo’ 2018, RIoja (£22, ultracomida and Curado Bar, Cardiff). Soft vanilla spice from the time in oak announces the wine on the nose. The red fruit aromas are bold and deep, which transfers to the palate on the first sip.
This is so pliable and enjoyable throughout, with the fruit theme maintaining its tenacious grip on the tastebuds. Tannins are there but silky and elegant, giving the wine its long and luxurious finish.
Contemporary packaging completes the cool modern image.
@NeilCammies email: neil.cammies@walesonline.co.uk Neil Cammies is a member of the Circle of Wine Writers