Best pizza I’ve ever had...
Anatoni’s is back in the capital after two years with a new location, and it’s very much been worth the wait, says Kathryn Williams
Pizza perfectionist Tony Frawley is under no illusion that Cardiff isn’t short of pizza places doing their thing for those passionate about a piece of pie, especially of the Neopolitan kind. But after two years away the founder of legendary Roath pizzeria anatoni’s, together with his wife anna, is back at the (pizza) coal face in Cardiff at the Victoria Park site where The Dough Thrower lived until this past summer.
and what a return it is. They launched quite quietly ahead of Christmas with a full-blown opening and menu on January 10.
We were lucky enough to cadge a last-minute booking on a Saturday evening to try it out and to see if that anatoni magic was still kneaded into every inch of their dough.
if anyone’s visited the previous pizzeria at the Cowbridge Road East location they’ll know it’s a modest size, but with plenty of tables that are not too close quarters that you can see the chilli flakes on the next table’s pizza.
We had an early dinner booking due to a four-year-old’s bedtime and this saw us ordering three pizzas, one Caruso (£14.95), an anatoni’s classic, the Santa anna (£13) and, of course, a Margherita for the little pizza-lover which was £8.95 – £2 cheaper than a full size.
Not to be shy about our weekend treat we had a calamari starter (£6.50) and the rosemary potatoes on the side for £3.50. We were promptly served the calamari which was crisp and a substantial, appropriately chewy mouthful. The coating was so
light it felt barely there, but the flavour and crunch was just right. Let’s not forget the dip on the side, a garlic mayo which was elevated by the addition of red pepper – a king of dips. Okay then, the pizzas. First up, we’ll definitely be back. Second up, the Caruso we ordered with a gluten free base and it was so brilliant it’s part of the reason we’ll definitely be back. Named after an opera singer, this combo sang tenor, bass and soprano with its selection of toppings covering all bases: Milano salami, spinach, fior di latte, goat’s cheese and pine nuts, all spread over a full-bodied layer of crushed tomatoes.
Manage to get all those elements in one bite and it’ll feel like there’s flavour party happening in your mouth and you’ll want a repeat invite. as mentioned, the gluten free base was a winner. This so often never happens, not as pillowy or perfectly springy as their traditional Neopolitan-style bases but it was crisp at the edge and had a pleasing droop towards the middle. it was simply the best GF based pizza i’d tried in the UK. The Santa anna and the cheese and tomato were on a classic base, and the four-year-old said it was the best he’d ever had and the adults are inclined to agree. The time and effort and high-end ingredients weaved into this pair is undeniable. Pillowy, springy, like i said but
The calamari coating was so light it felt barely there, but the flavour and crunch was just right
also the charred, bubbled edges were lush.
i’m never sure why so many people leave pizza crusts, because they’re among the best parts, especially at somewhere like this. We also loved the sweet optical illusion of the Margherita, it’s either a bunny or a fish whichever way you look at it – it was a great dining experience for a little one.
Let’s not forget those potatoes, i couldn’t anyway. They were tiny bites of pure, delicious genius, and so simple. Cooked with butter, oil and a Pecorino and parmesan on the top, the butter and oil were worked to their utmost giving it a certain umami that adding in the rosemary just completed the whole meal. Oh yes, and more of that cracking dip with them – perfection.
and so, while they are expecting to add more to the menu and maybe twiddle with the table layout, 591 by anatoni’s, and their loyal following, can be confident that the delicious magic remains both in the food and the service. anna and Tony and their staff make sure that everyone’s looked after and well fed to the high standards they expect from themselves.
Not one person on a walk-in was turned away, and there were a few, believe me, and the speediness was gratifying after a busy festive Saturday. We felt utterly welcome and very looked after from start to finish.
■ 591 by Anatoni’s is currently BYO alcohol. Follow their instagram for up-to-date announcements. Find them at 591 Cowbridge Road East.