Western Mail - Weekend

Why this is one of the eight best pubs in Wales

Named for ‘demonstrat­ing excellence’ in design and service, David Powell visits e Bull’s Head in Beaumaris...

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WE FELT it was only tting to check out e Bull’s Head Inn to see why it is so highly-rated. It was a sunny day when I arrived in the picturesqu­e haven of Beaumaris on the east of Anglesey, just along the coast from the Menai Suspension Bridge.

I parked in the grassy car park near the ferris wheel and reckoned I needn’t have booked as it was a Tuesday lunchtime. e Bull’s Head Inn has been included in the 2024 National Pub & Bar Awards, which recognise the best in each – old – county of the UK.

e pubs were chosen after “demonstrat­ing excellence across a number of elements that a ect the customer journey, including design, service, style of o er, marketing and investment”. As I reached e Bull’s Head Inn, I could see from the setting it was special.

Silhouette­s of bulls protruding from the facade are visible as you walk along Castle Street, leaving you in no doubt where to go. Inside, I saw a few diners in the restaurant but I went to the bar as it wasn’t table service.

After perusing the menu, I ordered e Bull’s Head Inn burger with chunky, thick-cut chips and found a table in the restaurant. I say “restaurant” but it looked more like a Victorian parlour.

ere was a Chester eld-style bench, elegant chairs and small tables, like card tables, for an intimate meal. Floral, tasseled lampshades were dotted about, with huge candlestic­ks and little lights in the ceiling.

Shelves were lined with blue and white patterned plates, pewter tankards, jugs and plants in vases. Prints of sailing ships lined the walls.

It all created a lovely mishmash of knick-knacks to catch the eye and give the place character. You could almost imagine a scene from an Oscar Wilde play in which Lady Bracknell might emerge from behind an aspidistra.

Anyway, the burger arrived and was fairly tasty and well-cooked. It came in a toasted brioche bun with smoked cheddar, gem lettuce and tomato with a “house burger sauce”. It also had a delicious slaw which, along with the thick-cut chips, gave a pleasing range of textures.

On another day I could have had a specialty – Menai mussels in cider cream sauce on a sourdough bloomer.

I was pretty full but ploughed gamely on to the irresistib­le rhubarb and apple crumble as it came with “lashings of custard”. It came in a charming little two-handled pot. e crumble was light and there were generous pieces of apple with sweet rhubarb.

I was pretty full but ploughed gamely on to the irresistib­le rhubarb and apple crumble as it came with ‘lashings of custard’

e lashings were available but I didn’t need them. As for the service, I was asked several times by the profession­al, attentive sta if the meal was okay, which it certainly was.

Afterwards, I walked through to the back and found yet more tables and a beer garden with customers sunning themselves while sipping a glass of something nice. It looks like someone had invested heavily to create a characterf­ul gastro pub with carefully chosen features.

I even met the man who varnishes the huge, external wooden door – the largest single-hinged one in the UK, I understand. Good luck with that!

So had e Bull’s Head Inn “demonstrat­ed excellence”? I think so.

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 ?? David Powell ?? > The rhubarb and apple crumble is served with lashings of custard at The Bull’s Head Inn in Beaumaris
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David Powell > The rhubarb and apple crumble is served with lashings of custard at The Bull’s Head Inn in Beaumaris nd
 ?? David Powell ?? The Bull’s Head Inn on Castle Street in Beaumaris has been shortliste­d for the 2024 National
Pub & Bar
Awards
David Powell The Bull’s Head Inn on Castle Street in Beaumaris has been shortliste­d for the 2024 National Pub & Bar Awards

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