Going with the flow
CHRIS HUTCHINSON DISCOVERS RIVER CRUISING AND INDULGES IN GATEAU IN THE BLACK FOREST
HE last time I cruised down a river was in my father’s fishing cobble as a young boy. I told my wife “I would fancy a river cruise holiday”, but the response was muted.
Three days later she said: “I would like a cruise on Brabant.”
She explained this was a “Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines” smaller scaled vessel, which visits places, larger boats can’t and has a very exciting itinerary and shore excursions.
I didn’t argue. But I thought this was my idea.
We joined Brabant in Dusseldorf and having enjoyed the staff’s infectiously friendly welcome, before exploring our new surroundings – an elegant combination of cherry wood interior and contemporary styling. Our cabin was spacious, with floor-to-ceiling windows allowing unrestricted views.
Our first port of call was Germany’s oldest city, Cologne, and its highlights were revealed on a panoramic city tour.
Dominating the city is Cologne Cathedral which impresses with its Gothic architecture, but once inside you are astounded by the stainedglass windows and the golden bejewelled shrine of the Three Kings – a sight to behold.
Other sights to enjoy include the Roman-Germanic Museum built on the site of a Roman villa and displaying one of its amazing mosaic floors, discovered during the construction of an air-raid shelter during the Second World War.
Our voyage down the Rhine then took us to Konigswinter, crowned by the majestic Drachenburg Castle nestling in dense forest atop a high peak. The cog railway took us up the steep incline to the castle, where we were welcomed into a bygone era with tales of myth and legend.
Overnight sailing brought us to Koblenz where Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines offer guests a full-day complementary Moselle river excursion.
Our first stop was Cochem, a small city dominated by the fairy tale like Reichburg Castle with its grand interior. The town itself is a labyrinth of quaint cobbled streets including the atmospheric market square.
Many of the shops were selling ladies clothes and accessories so I diversionary tactics and felt my wallet breathe a sigh of relief.
We enjoyed a tasty lunch with local beer which cost just £8 per head.
Next, a short journey took us into Beilstein, one of the most beautiful villages on the Moselle where individually-styled houses adorned with floral displays give off an abundance of aromas.
The day continued in picturesque landscapes as headed for a final treat. Sampling renowned Moselle wines, left us in a jolly mood! A memorable day, thanks to Fred.
Next morning, still in Koblenz, we took a short walk to the cable car and enjoyed a thrilling ride looking down to the magnificent sight of the Rhine and Moselle merging. After a brief look at the well-preserved Ehrenbreitstein Fortress at the top, the return journey deposited us near to a beer festival in full swing. We just had to stop and sample – well, when in Germany!
An afternoon cruising revealed at every twist and turn spectacular sights, characterised by picture postcard villages, steep terraced vineyards, lush forests, and of course, peaks dominated by castle after castle, each with its own style.
My views were pleasantly interrupted by the ice cream party on deck. We looked forward to evening delights, where you were spoilt for choice with the sumptuous fivecourse à la carte dinner menu.
Overnight sailing to Speyer, founded by the Romans, one of the highlights of our morning walking tour included the Technik museum housing vintage cars, aircraft and historical locomotives, and the Pfaiz museum, where they have what is believed to be the oldest bottle of wine, discovered in a roman tomb and estimated to be 1,650 years old.
Our afternoon tour took us to the impressive Heidelberg Castle where we explored this red sandstone fortress.
Then we crossed a border and found ourselves in France, for our penultimate visit, Strasbourg. Its centre is a Unesco World Heritage site and you are captivated by it the moment you go through the first lock, aboard your canal cruiser, in front of La Petite France district where, in a bygone era, millers, fishermen and tanners plied their trades.
Gliding under ornate iron, brick and wooden bridges you see stunning sights, a mixture of French and German architecture spanning over centuries; majestic palaces and tower fortifications rise from the waterway.
In contrast the route took us into the modern area passing by the European Parliament and Court of Human Rights.
Re-entering the Imperial City, we alighted close to the magnificent Strasbourg Cathedral, a fitting place to have lunch where delicious tarte flambee, mixed salad and local wine, cost only £17 for both of us. Refreshed, we went shopping, where we bought Strasbourg chocolates.
Swans accompanied our return to German soil, and Breisach, where we began our final tour into the enchanting Black Forest. As we journeyed we passed beautiful pastel-coloured villages, home to many storks nesting on rooftops – although no baby boom has been recorded.
A steep ascent of 2,000 feet brought us to the forest peak where views were breathtaking but the tranquil valley beckoned us back down and we took time to visit the House of Black Forest Clocks, where the Herr family have made cuckoo clocks for seven generations.
Adolf Herr greeted us with cherry liquor and inside we were served, what else but Black Forest gateau made with local cherries and a hint of their cherry liquor – scrumptious.
Our host took us to his workshop where we watched in awe as his skilful hands carved the intricate designs on the clock face. Every clock is individually made and each tells a different story. I could have watched all day. Further down the valley is the Black Forest Open Air Museum, a farmstead perfectly preserved for more than 460 years filled with authentic artefacts giving a flavour of times long gone.
As we left Breisach for Basel, Switzerland, and disembarkation, our friends the swans spread their wings and in unison broke into their characteristic whooping – was this a German swan song?
This Brabant river cruise itinerary exceeded my expectations – its sights, delights, and exciting shore excursions, with the high standard of local guides, were terrific value.
The atmosphere on board was intimate and friendly, where guests mingled, enjoying each other’s company.
I am pleased this cruise was my wife’s idea.