Scottish cuisine is more than haggis

Land of the Haggis – that is probably what some people think of the food of Scotland. But how wrong would they be. The patron saint of Scotland is St Andrew and November 30 is Scotland’s National Day – a day of celebration for Scots, no matter where they may live in the world, I can remember decades ago attending the annual Caledonian Ball in Karachi in Pakistan, (where there was quite a large Scottish contingent) and what a joy it was for us ladies to don our ball gowns and for the gentlemen to wear full highland dress. After enjoying a delicious banquet of Scottish food, we would then dance the night away, with kilts swinging and ball dresses swishing. It really was a wonderful sight. Of course Scottish food varies depending on the region. Whether it is for the grouse, in season from August, stuffed with cranberries and then roasted, or for the wild deer which still roam the Highlands, Scotland is of course famous for its shoots. I am rather fond of haunch and saddle which is generally roasted, while other cuts are trimmed and chopped for use in casseroles and in venison sausages and burgers. For many years I enjoyed a haggis on New Year’s Day if simply as a “nod” to our Celtic cousins in the North, with a tablespoonful or two of Scotch whisky poured over it, and accompanied by “tatties and neeps”. It certainly helps “recovery” after the New Year celebrations. Meanwhile, here are some of my favourite Scottish dishes.

STOVED CHICKEN

Dating back to the 17th century this is a filling family dish.

Ingredients (serves 6)

25g butter

1 tbsp cooking oil

8 chicken thighs

100g bacon lardons

1.1kg floury potatoes

2 large onions

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp dried thyme

600ml chicken stock

Bunch of fresh chives

Method

Peel and thickly slice the potatoes. Peel the onions and finely slice. Heat half of the butter and oil in a large non-stick frying pan and fry the chicken and the lardons together for a few minutes until lightly browned. Place a thick layer of potato slices, then onion slices in the base of a large ovenproof casserole dish, season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper and sprinkle over the dried thyme and dot with the remaining butter. Arrange the chicken and bacon on top and cover with the remaining onions, and then with the remaining potato slices. Dot with the remaining butter and pour over the stock, using a fork to move the layers so that the stock can soak through all the layers. Cover and dish and bake at 150C Gas mark 2 for 2-2½ hours, taking the lid off for the last 20 minutes, to allow the potatoes to brown on top. Just before serving quite finely chop the chives and sprinkle over the top.

ROAST SADDLE OF VENISON

Ingredients (serves 6) 2.5kg saddle of venison 60ml olive oil

150ml red wine

1 tsp dried basil

2 whole cloves

2 fat cloves garlic

2 leeks

2 carrots

2 parsnips

2 sticks celery

25g butter

25g plain flour

150g rindless streaky bacon

Method

Peel and crush the garlic. Trim and thickly slice the leeks. Peel and roughly chop the carrots and parsnips, and thickly slice the celery. Put the venison in a close fitting shallow non-metallic dish. Mix together the oil, wine, basil, cloves and crushed garlic and pour over the meat turning to coat evenly. Marinate for about 8 hours in a cool place. Heat the butter in a frying pan and cook all the vegetables until softened and lightly coloured, add half of the flour mixing in well and cooking until browned. Transfer the vegetables to a roasting tin, spreading evenly over the base. Remove the venison from the marinade and pat dry with kitchen paper, reserving the marinade. Place the venison on top of the vegetables in the roasting tin. Using the back of a fork stretch the bacon rashers to double their original size and place on top of the venison. Pour the reserved marinade over the venison. Cover the tin with foil and roast at 170C Gas mark 3 for about 2½ hours or until tender. Remove the foil and cook for a further 30 minutes to brown the venison. Transfer the venison and vegetables to a warm meat dish and keep hot in a warm oven. Blend the remaining flour with a little water and stir into the pan juicing, scraping up any sediment and bring to the boil, and strain through a fine sieve and hand separately.

ATHOLL BROSE

Ingredients (serves 6) 60g medium oatmeal 600ml double cream 4 tbsp runny honey 4 tbsp malt whisky

Method

Toast the oatmeal in a heavy frying pan until golden brown and spread out to cool on a chopping board. Whisk the cream until thick and stir in the honey and whisky and whisk again. Fold in the cooled toasted oatmeal and spoon into six glass goblets.

Rosa Mashiter