We in the SW are so spoiled for choice on where to dine al fresco!

Martin Hesp can’t wait for Monday, when we can all dine outside at pubs and restaurants...

Amoment when past meets future… For months many of us have had to rely on naught but pleasant of memories in our attempts to remain sane and positive – now we know that, from Monday onwards, we’ll at least have the opportunity to get out and about a little more. Which, of course, will give us the opportunity to make new memories – and I say that because some of my happiest memories during 20 years working as a roving feature writer for this newspaper are based on meals I have enjoyed al-fresco in pub gardens.

It’s the pubs, restaurants, cafes and other venues with outdoor eating areas which will be allowed to open for business next week and the odds are that folk will be flocking out to enjoy their newfound freedom, even if the weather remains chilly.

So we are devoting this article to the subject of going out to eat al-fresco in the Westcountry. What makes a great pub garden? What kind of food goes down best outdoors? Which are some of the best outdoor dining venues in the region?

If I were to choose a venue which stands out in my memory over two decades of extensive travels around the Westcountry, it would be the rather idyllic and semi-sub-tropical one to be found in what is really a front yard at the New Inn, on Tresco, in the Scillies.

I’ve enjoyed lunch there on many occasions thanks to the fact that my old job here at the WMN took me to the islands at least half a dozen times a year, and my friends at the Tresco Estate were most generous when it came to putting me up for the night.

But imagine... Getting up before dawn, I’d drive three hours to Newquay Airport where I’d wait at least an hour to climb aboard the Skybus flight to St Mary’s. After 25 minutes in the air, there’d be a trip down to St Mary’s quay where I may or may not have to wait for my old friend David Stedeford or his son James to ferry me across to Tresco. Often, this onward journey would be delayed if I needed to speak with people in Hugh Town, or perhaps the boat would have go to another island first. In winter, I’d sometimes have driven (and flown) through appalling weather conditions before reaching my final Scillonian destination. In summer, I’d have battled through the holiday crowds.

So, after five, six, seven or maybe even eight hours... Oh, the bliss! The absolute pleasure of walking the short distance from Tresco’s New Grimsby harbour to the pub.

A quick chat with my old pal Robin who was landlord for many years, and I’d at last sit out at one of the heavy wooden tables situated among the succulent-studded stonewalls of the front garden overlooking the sound across to Bryher.

And, wonder of wonders in winter (this being sub-tropical Tresco) I would be warm! It would be impossible to imagine I’d just

driven through snow on the wind-beaten shoulder of Dartmoor above Okehampton.

Then, at last, the always well-cooked and generous portion of fish and chips would arrive. Or perhaps one of the New Inn’s award-winning burgers made of Tresco Red Devon beef – both to be washed down by a well-kept pint of St Austell’s Tribute.

If one could package memories in order to keep them safe, I’d wrap these New Inn meals when I’d just reached the Scillies in cotton wool. Many a glorious dinner I’ve had in the pub too – most accompanied by copious amounts of Tribute – but it’s those al-fresco lunches I’ll remember forever (perhaps because the evening affairs sometimes became a little blurred).

A combination of things made the occasions special. I’d have to begin with the fact that I was a little exhausted and certainly very hungry every time. Then there was the unquestionable notion I’d reached somewhere exotic and unique. Throw in the sense of adventure, the Scillonian ambience, the view, the warmth, and the quality of the food and beer... Well, the choice is hardly surprising.

But I remember feeling a similar sense of relief and satisfaction having driven all the way to Cadgwith one day with my friend Patrick McCaig of Otter Brewery. The excellent fish and chips in the tiny but cosy garden of the Cadgwith Inn were just what we needed after a long morning on the road.

Then there was the time photographer Richard Austin and I travelled to St Ives aboard a First Great Western train from Taunton. The whole day out was based on how far we could go in the region on a train to enjoy an hour or two at a distant seaside. And, I can tell you, our lunch of fish and chips up on the roof-garden of the Pedn Olva Hotel, perched above St Ives’ main harbour beach, was magnificent.

You may notice that humble fish and chips are getting a regular mention, but that is because I like eating the view, so to speak. And of course the view becomes much more important when you are eating outdoors.

To me, a vista of salty waves and water means one thing: fish.

Years ago I lived in Texas and would go to remote townships for lunch in the gigantic landlocked prairie – a place where I would not dream of eating seafood. It was beef every time out there in the grasslands. At the New Inn I could actually see the island’s magnificent herd of Red Rubies grazing on the little green hills above the pub, so was for once spoiled for choice. But if, say, I were to have lunch in the garden of the excellent little Rugglestone Inn at Widecombe-in-the-Moor (as suggested by my RAW colleague, Lucy Johnson) I’d most definitely go for whatever local Dartmoor beef or lamb they had on the menu.

Because (as the name of the company suggests) my colleagues at RAW Food and Drink PR are all experts in the matter, I asked them for some Westcountry al-fresco dining recommendations.

“We are very excited about the new No 5 in Exeter,” said director Hayley Reynolds. “Set in a beautiful Grade I listed building, on Cathedral Green, No 5 has loads of outdoor covers (30 in a marquee and another 60 in the garden) and so is a perfect place to meet up and enjoy a meal in the city.”

My colleague Harry Wild had not one, but three suggestions: “The Bridge Inn, Topsham is, as far as I know, the only pub The Queen has been in. With benches overlooking the River Exe, you can enjoy a tankard from their cracking cider list and watch the herons line the waters edge. Great spot for kingfishers too.

“For the best coastal view and unbeatable food I’d go to The Mariners at Rock. There’s no better combination – Paul Ainsworth’s unbeatable food, a knockout view of the Camel estuary and Padstow, with service fronted by Paul Dodd’s team. It’s perfect.

“Then there’s the unique River Exe Café – dubbed by Vogue as ‘one of the most desirable

restaurant tables on the planet’. This floating pontoon has just added another storey to their only-accessible-byboat restaurant. A reservation books you a spot on the ferry from Exmouth, which often rewards you with a seal sighting along the way. Wine, seafood – and 360 degree views of the sea.”

RAW’s Hanna China told me: “One of my favourite memories is canoeing with a group of uni’ friends from Exeter Quay to Double Locks. We enjoyed a drink in the glorious beer garden before racing our way back for one of the Waterfront’s delicious, giant pizzas. The Exeter Canal is a great route to take on a paddleboard, kayak – or on a bike or on foot. And if you’ve the energy you can venture all the way to the pub at Turf Locks, but make sure you’ve got a booking.” She added: “The Ferry Boat Inn, Shaldon serves Salcombe Brewery beers, which I love. You can soak up glorious views on a walk along the South West Coast Path from Labrador Bay to Shaldon. You might even spot a cirl bunting along the way. I also recommend a pit stop at The Bucket & Spade, The Ness or The Ferry Boat Inn – you’ll need one on this hilly hike.”

Food blogger Natalie Brereton recommends The Poachers Pub, in Ide... “a hidden gem. You wouldn’t know it was there from the front, but it has a large gorgeous garden with rolling hills behind – and gets the sun all day long.”

Kath Hope loves the wonderful old Journeys End Inn at Ringmore, in the South Hams (which I too can vouch for) and, in the same area, Lucy Johnson recommends the restaurant at Gara Rock, which must have the finest coastal views in all the region. Hayley is a great admirer of the Agricultural Inn at Brampford Speke north of Exeter.

Elsewhere, I plan to visit the Bicknoller Inn at the foot of the beautiful Quantock Hills (excellent beer garden etc, opens Tuesday), and maybe Dorset’s Hive Beach Cafe where I once had excellent fish and chips with poet James Crowden, who also recommends the Watch House Cafe at West Bay. We’ll put up some more recommendations on our website www.rawfooddrink.

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