Live the simple life in Western France

Western France may be just across the Channel, but it feels a world away when it comes to scenery, cuisine and way of life. The regions of Normandy, Brittany and the Atlantic Loire Valley offer a vast playground of natural beauty spots and cultural diversions for couples, whether they’re returning visitors or first-timers. Late summer and autumn are ideal times to visit, the colours of the landscapes at their most vibrant and the lifestyle taking on a deliciously slow pace.

With pretty countryside and medieval villages giving way to quaint fishing ports and a dramatic coastline, Brittany is made for explorers. Its ports are irresistible, with quaysides lined with colourful terraces and pontoons stretching out to sea. Walking, cycling or cruising from lock to lock on the Nantes-Brest Canal takes you through numerous Petites Cités de Caractere including Malestroit, Josselin, Rohan and Pontivy – and is a real dive into the regional heartland.

In Quimper, streets are named after old job titles and Place au Beurre, where butter was sold, is one of the town’s prettiest locations – a good place to stop for a crêpe. East of Concarneau, the riverside village of Pont-Aven has a strong link with post-Impressionist painter Paul Gauguin. In fact, art plays

a central role in Brittany and you can tour most of the region in the footsteps of artists, from Picasso in Dinard and Denis on the Pink Granite Coast, to Paul Sérusier in Huelgoat and Monet on the island of Belle-Ile.

The other side of the iconic MontSaint-Michel, Normandy is also artistically significant, particularly this year as it celebrates the work of David Hockney. The artist now lives near picture-perfect Beuvron-en-Auge and spent much of 2020 creating The Arrival of Spring (on display at the Royal Academy in London until September), which captures the ever-changing light of the Normandy countryside. Beuvron’s surrounding Pays d’Auge is best explored by bike or on horseback along the Normandy Cider Route, stopping to taste apple cider and Calvados brandy and admiring the autumn colours.

Two other figures vying for visitors’ attention in Normandy are author Gustave Flaubert, celebrating his bicentenary this year with a series of regional events, and famous ‘gentleman burglar’ Lupin, already immortalised by a hit series on Netflix. Two new museums have also opened on the Flowered Coast: the Villa du Temps Retrouvé in Cabourg and Les Franciscaines in Deauville. Taking blustery beach walks and romantic river cruises are other great ways to soak up the Norman lifestyle at this time of year, refuelling with plenty of fresh seafood and unctuous cheeses.

Further south, the Atlantic Loire Valley (Pays de la Loire) makes for another tempting getaway. Majestic chateaux line the sinuous River Loire as it snakes inland from the coast: the fairytale Chateau de Saumur is perched on a rocky spur above the water, while France’s tallest chateau, Brissac, has

its own secret Belle-Epoque theatre. Capital Nantes offering arty city breaks with an eco-friendly focus. Angers is home to the ancient, astonishing ‘Tenture de l’Apocalypse’ tapestry as well as Terra Botanica, the world’s only theme park dedicated to plants. But perhaps the region’s greatest draws are its vineyards – and resulting world-class wine.

One popular way of seeing the vineyards is by bike. Pedal your way through the vines around Nantes, as well as the Fiefs Vendéens, Anjou-Saumur and the Loir (no ‘e’) Valley. Quirkier ways to tour include horse-and-carriage rides and escape games, while gourmet picnics combine wine tastings with delicious local specialities. You can even extend the wine theme overnight, with accommodation in imitation wine barrels and eco hikers’ cabins amongst the vines.

All this is easily accessible with Brittany Ferries, making western France a great alternative to a staycation – and taking your own car to France offers the freedom and reassurance you need. Hassle-free departures from Plymouth mean no lengthy airport queuing, there’s plenty of fresh air onboard plus private cabins, and a range of ticket types offers maximum flexibility if things change. So when you’re ready, hit the road and start rediscovering the wonders of our nearest neighbour!