Western Morning News (Saturday)
Wine words
STARTING a new wine column is often filled with trepidation – so I will kick off with Italy, a place we all know and love. Our destination is the so-called ‘food capital’, Emila Romagna – an amazing area centred around the exquisite city of Bologna. An historic trading post, a centre of excellence and a seat of learning – with its great university and its numerous squares, towers and fountains and, of course, 100s of trattorias.
Famed for its produce, you might think Emila Romagna is similarly noted as a wine area – but Chianti, to the west, tends to steal the show. However, I want to introduce you to a smart range of wines that are both food-friendly and affordable.
The Rubicone appellation is named after the fabled river which Julius Caesar crossed a mighty long time ago. Inland of coastal cities such as Rimini and nearby Cesena, the region’s vineyards are to be found flourishing on suitable soils, aired by constant coastal breezes and providing a rich and diverse range of grapes and wine-styles.
Our chosen wines are created near Cesena by the go-ahead family company, Montaia, in a modern winery using both stainless steel and oak (when needed).
■ Montaia Frizzante DOC – the lightly sparkling Pignoletto grape offers a gentle white fruit base with zingy citrus notes to the spritzy dry finish. Sip with shellfish and seafood – £13.50 per bottle.
■ Montaia Chardonnay IGP –a great surprise! Not knowing or expecting Chardonnay here, I swirled, sniffed, nosed and sipped – and it immediately offered a rich fruit middle with a balanced citrus finish. A versatile food wine – £12.99 per bottle.
■ Montaia Cabernet Sauvignon IGP – another surprise, this time in the guise of Cabernet Sauvignon showing a lighter style. Black fruit, spice and elegance - £12.99 per bottle.
■ Montaia Sangiovese IGP
– Sangiovese is really at home in this vinous environment, after all, it’s just a breeze away from Chianti over the Apennine Mountains. The classic cherryscent plus juicy red-fruit drinkability creates a relatively unknown Sangiovese of quality. A brilliant all-round food wine – £9.99 per bottle.
Find all wines, terms and delivery on www.wickhamwine.co.uk www.stephenbarrett.com @bistrowineman on Twitter & Instagram