Western Morning News (Saturday)

Wine words

- By Stephen Barrett Sponsored by Devon-based Wickhams

STARTING a new wine column is often filled with trepidatio­n – so I will kick off with Italy, a place we all know and love. Our destinatio­n is the so-called ‘food capital’, Emila Romagna – an amazing area centred around the exquisite city of Bologna. An historic trading post, a centre of excellence and a seat of learning – with its great university and its numerous squares, towers and fountains and, of course, 100s of trattorias.

Famed for its produce, you might think Emila Romagna is similarly noted as a wine area – but Chianti, to the west, tends to steal the show. However, I want to introduce you to a smart range of wines that are both food-friendly and affordable.

The Rubicone appellatio­n is named after the fabled river which Julius Caesar crossed a mighty long time ago. Inland of coastal cities such as Rimini and nearby Cesena, the region’s vineyards are to be found flourishin­g on suitable soils, aired by constant coastal breezes and providing a rich and diverse range of grapes and wine-styles.

Our chosen wines are created near Cesena by the go-ahead family company, Montaia, in a modern winery using both stainless steel and oak (when needed).

■ Montaia Frizzante DOC – the lightly sparkling Pignoletto grape offers a gentle white fruit base with zingy citrus notes to the spritzy dry finish. Sip with shellfish and seafood – £13.50 per bottle.

■ Montaia Chardonnay IGP –a great surprise! Not knowing or expecting Chardonnay here, I swirled, sniffed, nosed and sipped – and it immediatel­y offered a rich fruit middle with a balanced citrus finish. A versatile food wine – £12.99 per bottle.

■ Montaia Cabernet Sauvignon IGP – another surprise, this time in the guise of Cabernet Sauvignon showing a lighter style. Black fruit, spice and elegance - £12.99 per bottle.

■ Montaia Sangiovese IGP

– Sangiovese is really at home in this vinous environmen­t, after all, it’s just a breeze away from Chianti over the Apennine Mountains. The classic cherryscen­t plus juicy red-fruit drinkabili­ty creates a relatively unknown Sangiovese of quality. A brilliant all-round food wine – £9.99 per bottle.

Find all wines, terms and delivery on www.wickhamwin­e.co.uk www.stephenbar­rett.com @bistrowine­man on Twitter & Instagram

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