Western Morning News (Saturday)
All aboard for the ultimate al-fresco dining experience
Martin Hesp has been finding out how to serve up a mouth-watering meal on board a yacht... or any other sea faring vessel!
There is a theory that dining next to water – be that ocean, river or even canal – somehow makes food taste extra-special. If true, then it is an experience that’ll have been enjoyed by many millions of picnickers and diners in waterside eateries this hot summer. But some would push the theory further – they would say that having a meal ON the water is what offers the ultimate al-fresco dining experience.
To test the theory, we were going to have high-tea aboard an icon of the Somerset Levels, The Duchess, a solar-powered antique Devon ferry which plies the River Parrett out of Langport. But a last minute Met Office warning put us off. Plus, the river is at present so choked with waterweed, skipper Ian MacNab is hesitant to take the boat out. I hope we can enjoy that tea soon – but in the meantime, let’s celebrate the idea of boats and dining.
These pages have, over the years, enjoyed many a voyage with North Devon’s well known purveyor of seafood, Dan the Fishman – and we always have a truly delicious breakfast with him aboard the MS Oldenburg on our way to Lundy.
Many South West food and drink companies have strong links with the water, including several that we work with at RAW Food and Drink PR. Both Salcombe Distilling Company and Salcombe Brewery actively raise funds for maritime charitable purposes and Hattiers Rum has strong links with the sea.
“Our distillery is just feet from the water’s edge – so of course we want to be heavily involved with raising funds for initiatives which help protect the amazing environment around us,” says co-founder Howard Davies. “The team at Salcombe Distilling Co all share a common desire to help protect and maintain the precious ocean environment that inspires and influences everything we do.
“It’s our aim to sequester more carbon emissions than we create, and whilst we’re working in partnership with major ocean charities on re-wilding projects that sequester carbon, we’re focusing on the ways in which we can act now,” says Howard whose company has partnered with the Marine Conservation Society to donate 1% of Salcombe Gin ‘Start Point’, ‘Rosé Sainte Marie’ and New London Light bottle sales to support seagrass regeneration projects.
The company hosted its first ever Sustainability Festival this month, bringing ocean lovers together with a day of sustainable food, drink and shopping from local brands. MSC National Seasearch Coordinator, Charlotte Bolton, hosted a talk highlighting the importance of the recent ‘no anchor zone’ buoys funded through Salcombe Distilling Co’s ‘1% for the Ocean’ campaign to protect Seagrass meadows off the coast of Dorset’s Portland Harbour.
Up the hill, the Salcombe Brewery Company this week revealed it has just donated over £1,000 to The Seahorse Trust – raised through a five pence donation for every bottle sold of its Seahorse beer. The brewery is aiming to achieve B Corp status – one of the toughest environmental benchmarks any business can attain.
Managing director Jordan Mace, explains: “The surrounding coastal environment has always been hugely important to us. Salcombe Estuary is one of the few places in the UK where you can find the rarer of the two species of seahorse – and we partnered with The Seahorse Trust four years ago to raise funds to support these endangered creatures by making a donation of five pence from every bottle of Seahorse sold.”
Along the Devon coast, Hattiers Rum already has the sought-after environmental and social classification provided by B Corp status. Founder Philip Everett-Lyons says the entire business has been fuelled by a passion for life at sea and the Westcountry’s seafaring legacy.
“We are always looking for the next opportunity to get out on the water,” said Philip. “So naturally we were elated to sponsor British Classic week for the second year running. The Hattiers team happily donned their deck shoes to celebrate and commiserate with crew members after a hard day’s sailing with the most revered spirit in the sailing community... rum!”
So much for the companies helping to protect the watery environment – but what about actually dining afloat? Probably the best person to ask is Fiona Sims, whose The Boat Cookbook has become a nautical best-seller. Why did she write a recipe book dedicated to cooking at sea?
“To improve my sailing-mad dad’s cooking on board,” laughed Fiona when we spoke. “Tinned mince and ancient curry powder, anyone? But if it helps other leisure sailors’ cooking on board then even better. It’s all about quick, delicious recipes made with the minimum of fuss and maximum flavour.
“And while some of the recipes might be useful for those on long ocean crossings, The Boat Cookbook is really intended for people, like me, who sail at weekends in boats with tiny galleys, or who holiday on boats, who put into port regularly, where I encourage them to seek out great local produce.”
I asked Fiona for her basic tips based on waterborne cookery...
“Sounds obvious, I know, but only cook at anchor, or when the sea is calm” she replied. “It’s no fun in the galley when you’re rocking about on the open seas – even for those with the sturdiest stomachs. For rough passages make sandwiches ahead or fill a Thermos with soup you have made earlier – and you can’t underestimate the power of a flapjack or piece of fruitcake to sustain you at sea, made at home well ahead.”
Having cooked lunch on a friend’s yacht in heavy seas earlier this year, I know exactly what she means. Even though we were at anchor in a so-called “sheltered cove”, I felt so queasy by the time I’d finished gutting fresh fish, I could not actually face the meal I’d taken the trouble to prepare.
“You need to be organised,” Fiona told me. “You can’t just pop to the shops if you’ve forgotten something. Only buy what’s needed for the meals planned, making full use of your store cupboard essentials as space is tight.”
Cooking on board might not be for everyone, or it might simply be too rock-n-roll down in the galley. So I asked acting travel editor at Boat International, Georgia Boscowen, for her tips aimed at those cruising the coasts of the South West. “I have such a soft spot for Devon and Cornwall when it comes to yachting,” said Georgia, whose family is involved in both the Tregothnan Tea company, based in the hills above the Fal Estuary, and Salcombe Dairy. “Tregothnan Tea has lots of experiences and tours along the Fal which offer wonderful opportunities for visiting sailors. But when it comes to waterside places in which to dine I will always recommend the Hidden Hut in Porthscatho – which is exceptional. I would also recommend Fowey as a foodie hotspot – with North St Kitchen, Fitzroy and Pintxo. They’re all brilliant. Then there’s Culture, a new restaurant in Falmouth by chef Hylton Espey which has a great tasting menu. Also bear in mind the Taste of Scilly festival (15-25 September).” Yes indeed, I will be bearing it in mind and hopefully reporting on it in these pages – in the meantime why not enjoy Fiona’s recipes, whether you are at sea or simply at home enjoying the summer...