Western Morning News (Saturday)
On Saturday Symbol of UK culture still marching on
DESPITE drooling over their changing styles, colours and features for many years, I have never owned a pair of Dr Martens boots. While all my friends seemed to have a pair back in the 1980s; whether punk rocker, skinhead or new romantic, the cool boots were always priced a little out of my modest student pocket.
I wanted to be a punk ad I wanted to be a revolutionary, but I just couldn’t quite afford the Carnaby Street look.
Now I could probably just about splash out on a pair but I am worried about looking like a middle aged women trying to recapture her idealistic youth by still sporting her trusty DMs.
I once found a pair in my size in a charity shop and thought that was going to be my moment. But while the boots looked in incredible condition, they were also extremely uncomfortable when I tried them on, having welded themselves to the shape of the previous owner’s feet.
I do, however, very much hope that this British institution can kick back at the economic storm it is currently facing – and being forced to raise its prices to counter the falling sales and export costs.
Although only a small part of its range is still made in Northampton, the DM boot has always been as symbolic of British culture as the bowler hat. Yet obviously in a totally different way.
The DM is an emblem of social revolution. The boots express rebellion, the power of youth culture, the importance of music and the distrust of the political regime.
It might be surprising to know that the Dr Martens business actually has its origins in post-war Germany.
In 1945, a 25-year-old soldier, Dr Klaus Maertens, hurt his foot skiing and invented a special air-cushioned sole to protect it. He later worked with an engineering friend to put his design into production.
At first, 80% of the sales of the sturdy boots were to women over the age of 40 who wore them for harsh outdoor work because they were so comfortable.
Then, in the 1960s, a British shoemaking firm saw the boot listed in a catalogue and arranged a deal with the German business, making a few design tweaks, such as modifying the heel and adding yellow stitching. The rest, as they say, is social history.
DMs began as a £2 work boot worn by postmen and factory workers but were later picked up by skinheads. Then Pete Townshend of The Who, became the first celebrity to wear them, as a symbol of his own working-class pride and rebellious nature. And many more high-profile figures were to follow from Madness to the The Cure, the Dalai Lama and even Labour politician Tony Benn who adopted the boot to express his solidarity with the working classes.
An earlier association with violence, such as football hooligans and racist thugs, who would “christen” their boots with the blood of a victim’s kicking, thankfully largely disappeared.
While at the height of their popularity in the 80s and 90s, the boots have transcended fashion trends to remain popular and while coming up with more colours – and less of the skinhead red – the DM has maintained its place in the market.
You can now even get a veganfriendly Dr Martens boot.
But what of the future? Can the DM march on despite the storm -or will it be tripped and fall - like so many other symbols of Britishness.
I think not. I feel the rise of a new social movement.
And perhaps it’s time to ask Santa to put me on the very nice – if a little rebellious – list, and bring me a pair!
You can now even get a veganfriendly Dr Martens boot