BUY LOCAL AND GIVE A BOOST TO WEST FOOD PRODUCERS
In June last year, the Western Morning News launched its Pride of the West campaign, championing and celebrating the Westcountry farmers and food producers working hard to keep the nation fed and watered during the first national lockdown. Eight months and a third lockdown later, buying and supporting local is just as important and relevant, Athwenna Irons reports
AMID the gloom of coronavirus and its unprecedented impact on our lives, the crisis has sparked something of a local shopping revival.
Since the pandemic began in March last year, consumers have started seeing the cohort of bakers, butchers, grocers, farmers and fishermen on their doorstep in a whole new light.
Support for independents has soared as they have shown their immeasurable value in terms of providing a lifeline to local communities, a safe shopping environment away from the bustle of the supermarket aisles, and a higher-quality offering of produce not dictated by complex supply chains.
Research carried out by leading rural insurer, NFU Mutual, at the end of last year found that one in four people had used farm shops or bought from local producers more in 2020, with a desire to support smallscale, often family-run businesses being the biggest reason for choosing to buy direct from the farm gate.
This was echoed in the findings of the Countryside Alliance’s Rural
Shops Survey, published in December, which revealed that 66% of respondents had seen an increase in sales since the beginning of the pandemic. When asked just how much those sales had risen by, 64% said between 20% and 50%.
Products which saw the greatest jump in sales were meat, vegetables and dairy products, as well as staple food items such as flour, eggs, and bread.
And in a predominantly rural region such as the Westcountry, with dwellings dotted along coastlines, perched on moorland and snuggled in lowland valleys, the opportunity for farmers and food producers to capitalise as more of us look closer to home when restocking the cupboards has never been greater.
Higher Trenowin Farm Shop, lying mid-way between Penzance and St Ives at Nancledra, is just one of the many small family farm businesses helping to support its local community through the latest lockdown.
Opening just once a month, it serves a fiercely loyal group of customers with home-produced Red Ruby Devon beef and lamb, local pork and an array of seasonal vegetables.
Owned by Steve and Bridgette Clamp, the monthly policy which has been in place for the past two years is proving no hindrance to trade. Bridgette explains: “Our regular customers have been absolutely brilliant in supporting us.
“Going into Covid-19, it’s been amazing for the shop. Our turnover has gone up by 50% because people have wanted to shop locally to support the locals, which is great.”
Breeders of pedigree Red Rubies under the Trenowin prefix, Steve and Bridgette are firm believers of
promoting honesty, traceability and transparency through the farm shop, with visitors to Higher Trenowin Farm often welcomed ‘behind the scenes’ to see the cattle for themselves.
“We’re able to tell our customers the whole story from start to finish,” says Bridgette. “Now when they go round the back of the shop and look in the yard, they’ll see all the cows and calves, and what is essentially their beef for next year. Everyone enjoys going to stroke the bull and it’s his progeny on their dinner plate in the evening.
“OK, the truth can be a bit gruesome sometimes, but we’re here and not hiding anything. We’re delighted for people to come up the lane and see what farmers get up to. Since Covid-19, we’ve got new people coming to the farm and they’re asking questions a lot more.”
Bridgette adds: “Our customers know that we take care with all of the Covid hygiene rules and regulations, and because of that they feel much safer coming here.”
Supplying the public direct has helped to keep Sam Chapman’s family-run business, Nippers Shellfish, on an even keel. When the catering and hospitality trade collapsed in March, 2020, as a result of the first lockdown, the Looe-based merchant turned to technology to sell boxes of sustainably caught fish and shellfish – in turn supporting local boats – to discerning customers across the region and nationwide.
Since featuring recently on the BBC series Cornwall: This Fishing Life, there has been a huge influx of orders. Sam told the programme: “The good thing about fishing or this industry is it’s about what you’re willing to put in. We’ve just got to ride this year out and do what we can, and hopefully we’ll still be stood here come the next season.”
Writing on Facebook following the episode’s airing on January 25, Nippers Shellfish said it hoped people “got a small insight into what a special little harbour Looe is, made by its dedicated fishermen”. It added: “It’s important we all do something the UK Government are failing to do; support our local fishing communities. Or before we know it, they’ll be gone. A genuine thank you.”