Wishaw Press

House & Home

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the shrub with a spade and dig a deep trench following the circle’s curve. Use a garden fork to loosen the earth around the ball of the roots, then gently fork the surplus earth from around the roots.

If the stems or branches of the shrub are unwieldy, tie them loosely with garden string so they don’t snap off or get damaged during the excavation.

Once the ball of roots has been loosened, dig your spade under the root ball as far as you can, levering gently as you go around the circle. The aim is to keep as large a root ball attached to the plant as possible.

When you feel the shrub move, tilt it to one side and slide a length of plastic sheeting or sacking underneath the root ball. Tilt the shrub the other way and manoeuvre the sacking so that it comes underneath the whole root ball, then wrap it up and tie it around the trunk securely, to minimise water loss and keep the root ball and soil intact.

Unwrap the sacking and carefully place the shrub in its original depth. There should be a distinct soil mark on the shrub, so it’s easy to gauge. Fill the hole with displaced soil, firm in gently with the ball of your foot to get rid of any air pockets and give it a good soaking. Water regularly until the plant becomes establishe­d and mulch with organic matter. Large shrubs may need support for a year or two.

Some plants react better to being moved than others. Those which are easier to move include rhododendr­on and

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