Why every woman should use retinol the lowdown on beauty’s current favourite ingredient

Face cream can only do so much, says beauty editor Fiona McKim, but this is the most hard-working ingredient in skincareÉ

One of the great things about being a beauty editor is you’re never stuck for conversation at parties – everybody’s got questions.

the flipside of that is I do seem to spend a lot of time telling people things they don’t want to hear. How do I lift my sagging eyelids? Er, surgery. What can really help with cellulite? learning not to worry about it too much. thank God then for retinol, because in a beauty market that so often overpromises and underdelivers, this stuff really does work. In fact, it works on just about every aspect of the way your skin looks and feels, and has been consistently proven to do so for decades.

of course, there’s no such thing as a miracle product and if you’ve ever tried retinol you’ll know it comes with caveats. but that doesn’t stop just about every skincare expert, beauty editor and dermatologist

I’ve ever interviewed including it in their routine in one way or another. Read my guide here, play by a few simple rules and I’d argue it should absolutely be in yours too.

The facts

Retinol, or retinoids, as these vitamin a derivatives are broadly known, were originally prescribed as a topical acne treatment, but doctors soon discovered that they work on nearly everything else too. “Retinoids encourage collagen production and cell renewal, so they improve skin elasticity, firmness and fine lines,” says Dr stefanie Williams, dermatologist and Eudelo Clinic founder. “they help reduce pigmentation and refine skin texture, repair sun damage, regulate overproduction of oil thus reducing breakouts, and improve the appearance of pores.” unsurprisingly, with these kind of results, every brand wanted a piece of the pie, creating a non-stop flow of product innovation and some of the

industry’s most persuasive before and after photographs (easily googled, if you wish).

The formulas

It’s true there’s no action without reaction and retinol is action-packed. once retinol converts into retinoic acid in your skin and gets to work, dryness, sensitivity, redness and flaking are all possible side effects, so pick a formula with care. Pure retinol is the gold standard – it’s powerful and comes in concentrations up to 1% without prescription, but I’d start at 0.5% max. If you’re sensitive or rosacea-prone, look for formulas that contain esters like retinyl palmitate, acetate or linoleate. these go through more conversions in your skin to become retinoic acid, diluting both unwanted reactions and desired results. but if you have severely sun-damaged skin or acne, try prescription-only tretinoin or Retin-a, which is retinoic acid that is ready and available for your skin to use. both ingredients go harder, faster and stronger on the results front, often with visible irritation into the bargain.

The method

“the key is to start slow,” says Jana Vogt, aesthetic surgeon at Mallucci london. “begin using it two to three times a week. Increase gradually until your skin tolerates it every night without reacting.” It’s fine to have a break and start again if you need to. apply straight after cleansing so it penetrates unhindered. a pea-sized amount will do your face, chest and neck, and the backs of hands too. old-school rules forbid using retinol around the eyes but experts now say it works wonders, as long as it’s tolerated. as with any active, retinol plays nicely with some ingredients over others. use alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic between retinol days to help shift any flakes and boost radiance. “If you use an antioxidant like ferulic acid, it makes retinol even more effective,” says Jana. “I’d advise to not use acne treatments like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide at the same time, as the effect could be too drying for the skin.”

The products

Well-formulated retinol is rarely cheap or attractive, it usually has a chemical smell and ranges from sour milk to straw in colour. the active bit is broken down by light so only buy uV-protective packaging; tubes and tinted droppers are good, airless pumps are better. avoid clear jars. this isn’t a quick fix, you might notice improvements after a month, for some it takes 12 weeks. Go slow and steady with any of these smart formulas, the rewards are worth persevering for.

Begin using retinol only two to three times a week. Increase gradually until your skin tolerates it every night without reacting