Hidden Croatia The tiny, unspoilt island of Lošinj
This part of Croatia is a world away from its better-known destinations
The tiny, unspoilt island of
Lošinj is closer to Italy’s Venice than Dubrovnik. Getting there used to involve a drive from Zagreb followed by a ferry ride, but there’s now the much easier option of a 50-minute flight from the capital.
A mere 20 miles by two, Lošinj (pronounced loshing) is known as the island of wellness and vitality, renowned for its healing air. It offers a pleasing mix of beach, culture and mountains, plus over 2,500 sunny hours a year. Landing in jet-set style onto the island’s tiny runway, daily life stresses melt away as we inhale the heady scent of herbs the island is famous for. A short drive takes us to picture-perfect Čikat Bay, surrounded by fragrant pine trees. The bay is ideal for a cycle, jog, walk or simply lounging waterside, and the clear blue sea has me reaching for my swimwear.
Čikat Bay is the location of the superbly luxurious five-star Boutique Hotel Alhambra, an Art Deco Mediterraneanstyle villa built in 1912, which blends seamlessly with its more contemporary architecture. Some of the elegantly decorated rooms feature classic roll-top baths – the perfect vantage point for people-watching along the bay. Nearby, the more modern-styled sister hotel, Bellevue, is ideal for families, with vast pools and a greater choice of restaurants.
The island became a renowned health centre over 100 years ago. Today, Bellevue’s mammoth spa clinic is the real
deal in terms of its beauty menu, plus medical, aesthetic and holistic wellness services. But there’s a lovely cosiness about Boutique Hotel Alhambra’s sumptuous Cube Spa, and after a relaxingbut-unknotting The Traveller Full Body Massage, a dip in the therapeutic seawater colour-change indoor pool is a treat.
Lošinj’s cuisine is deliciously Mediterranean-based. Boutique Hotel Alhambra’s Alfred Keller Restaurant, headed by Croatian chef Melkior Bašić, makes clever use of fresh local produce. The island’s herbs are used in dishes including a carpaccio of sea bass, John Dory and monkfish. Oh, and in the homemade herb butters, which means I can’t stop nibbling the fresh bread rolls!
Further dining options in the bay include Restaurant Cigale Čikat Bay, with simple-but-flavour-packed dishes including fried fish with polenta. I’m still dreaming about the trofie pasta with Parmesan and truffle oil. And a boat trip on the sparkling water to the tiny island of Ilovik offers another memorable lunch at restaurant Dalmatinka – a huge shared oven tray of roasted fish and vegetables.
Culture can be found in two postcardperfect towns. Veli Lošinj’s St Anthony’s Church reveals exquisite Italian paintings, while Mali Lošinj’s must-visit Museum of Apoxyomenos is dedicated to just one exhibit – a rather revealing statue of a young Greek athlete from the 1st or 2nd century BC. En route, stop off at Lošinj Aromatic Herb Garden, where fragrant herbs are grown and used to make gifts such as teas, oils and liqueurs.
Finally, enjoy selfies and sundowners at Providenca Lookout, from where you can reflect on your new-found paradise while sipping a local myrtle liqueur.