Healthy happy SKIN
With so many of us now experiencing sensitive skin conditions, Sarah Cooper-White asks if it’s time to be kinder to our complexions
We’ve all been there. That burning, itching, bright red reaction when you’ve used something you didn’t know you were sensitive to. When it comes to skincare, we all have high hopes. But sometimes the bathroom mirror can greet you with a face that more closely resembles a tomato than the smooth, dewy complexion you were hoping for. OUCH. As a beauty editor,
I’ve had my fair share of red-faced moments when testing new formulas over the years. It’s an occupational hazard, often caused by overzealous usage of a new ‘miracle’ cream that has landed on my desk. Like many ‘beauty addicts’, I’m a sucker for ingredients that promise fresher, more youthful, peachier skin. But the problem is that many of us (one in three, according to a new Mintel study) now suffer from sensitive skin as a result; from a complexion that’s easily irritated, to dramatic reactions if you use certain products, skin may even flare up if you feel stressed or unwell. And while our genetics can play their part in what skin type we have, many of these sensitivities are down to a compromised skin barrier, simply from using the wrong products.
In a recent study, 66% of women* said they now wear less make-up than they did before the pandemic. But this has put a greater focus on skin health and ensuring our complexion looks its best without the need for too many cosmetics. Tackling common problems such as lines, pigmentation, acne or enlarged pores can come at a price, with overuse of high-strength ingredients like acids and retinoids causing all manner of skin flare-ups, from redness and peeling to extreme dryness.
‘The availability of products that promise overnight transformations, coupled with the rise of social media and people documenting their 10-step skincare routines, all results in both the consumer and, more importantly, our skin, being confused and unable to respond appropriately,’ explains skincare specialist Jane Scrivner. ‘Random application of products designed to replenish, then remove, restore, then resurface, can all leave the skin confused, exposed and vulnerable.’
The essential function of our skin is as a protective layer. As the largest organ in our body, it works like a brick wall between us and our environment, helping to minimise damage from trauma, chemicals and infections.
‘But if the cement keeping those bricks together is removed – by abrasive scrubs, retinoids, peels or alcohol-based toners – the skin barrier becomes impaired and this results in increased water loss, leading to dryness, a reduction in skin thickness, and lower levels of protective lipids and ceramides,’ explains Dr Lucy Thomas, consultant dermatologist and brand ambassador for Vaseline UK.
‘In addition, potential irritants can enter the skin, stimulating nerve endings and causing inflammation.’ >>