The best-kept secret in France
The southern Champagne region offers outstanding food and wine, gorgeous gardens and stunning walks
WHY GO?
The ancient walled city of Langres has a fairytale quality. It’s 183 miles south-east of Paris in the Haute-marne region of Champagne. Clamber along two miles of ramparts, the longest of any walled city in Europe, for views of the River Marne. You could also try a self-guided route around the warren of medieval streets. Then refuel at the Bar L’europa near the city walls for a glass of locally brewed beer.
While you’re in the area, head to the medieval town of Châteauvillain to discover gory stories of Renaissance life.
Boozy tours
The big fizz firms of northern Champagne may be famous, but the south of the region won’t be outdone when it comes to wine. Stop off at Le Muid Montsaugeonnais winery to admire the
barreis and discover how 600 members of the local community co-operative bought the 13 hectares of vineyards. You can pick up a real bargain with bottles from £4.
CHÂTEAU CHIC
Château du Pailly, 15 minutes by car southeast of Langres, is worth the journey. Some parts have been magnificently restored, with enormous plasterwork fireplaces dating from the 1660s and painted vaults. But it’s a work in progress, with yet-to-be-touched turrets and towers at every turn. Tours in English take place on Thursdays and Sundays.
CHARMING ROOMS
Forget intimidating posh hotels, this area of France is crammed with boutique family-run places. In the heart of Langres is the B&B Le Belvedere des Remparts (lebelvederedesremparts.com), owned by husband and wife Loren and Eglys. Each room is individually decorated. At £68 per room, per night, including breakfast, it’s great value.
GREAT OUTDOORS
Haute-marne has 245,000 hectares of forest and over 1,000 miles of rivers to explore, so a hike in the woodlands at the commune of Rolampont is a must. It’s so quiet that all you can hear are the rustling leaves and waterfalls, and there are clearly marked trails. After all of that fresh air you’ll have earned a lunch or dinner at nearby Auberge de La Fontaine, which is teeming with locals.
PEACEFUL PIT STOP
En route home, spend a night at La Source Bleue hotel – it’s set next to a turquoise lake in Gudmont-villiers. Rooms have chic bathrooms and huge beds. Visitors flock here for the excellent food. Rooms from £60 per night.