Feel-good CYPRUS
Head to southern Cyprus for autumn sunshine, peaceful historic sites and glorious food
Legend has it that Aphrodite, goddess of love and fertility, came into being in the Aegean Sea southwest of Cyprus. And there are plenty of good reasons to follow in her graceful footsteps to this island nation, a dreamy place for a relaxing Mediterranean break. Worlds apart from the boisterous tourist resort of Ayia Napa (Agia Napa), further east, the southwestern countryside around Pafos (Paphos), Lemesós (Limassol) and Larnaca is pleasantly traditional, with crinkled shores lapped by waters of deepest indigo and turquoise. Inland, organic vegetables, pomegranate trees, olive groves and grape vines flourish, and there are characterful towns and villages to explore.
Make like Aphrodite
Cyprus is steeped in ancient legends and peppered with archaeological sites. Before becoming part of the British Empire in the 1870s, the island was shaped by everyone from the Ottomans and Venetians to the Romans and Egyptians. But more than 3,000 years ago, the ancient Greeks – worshippers of goddess of love Aphrodite - left their mark. Places that still bear her name include Aphrodite’s
Rock, jutting out of the enticingly blue sea around 25km southeast of Pafos. At the nearby
Sanctuary of Aphrodite in Kouklia, wander through the remnants of a temple dedicated to the goddess and admire a room full of treasures from different eras. Other World Heritage-listed ruins to visit include Nea Pafos, with its superb mosaics, and the reconstructed Greco-roman amphitheatre at Kourion.
Hello, halloumi
Cyprus is the home of halloumi: chewy, salty, squeaky-textured cheese made from a blend of ewe’s, goat’s and cow’s milk, scented with fresh mint. It is especially delicious grilled. Cypriots sometimes serve it with watermelon for breakfast.
Craving seafood? The locals’ favourite spot for octopus, calamari and more is the fishing village of Zygi, between Lemesós and Larnaca.
Meanwhile, the pretty village of Omodos is superb for little treats such as lokoumades (honey-drenched
doughnuts) and soutzoukos (candle-shaped grape and almond jellies).
The southwestern Cypriots know a thing or two about wine, too. Their speciality, made from Mavro and Xynisteri grapes, is Commandaria, an amber-coloured dessert wine.