Travel: Heritage steam-train trips in North Wales
Gillian Thornton takes a tranquil trip on board the heritage steam trains of North Wales
There’s something incredibly soothing about travelling by steam train through some of Britain’s most spectacular countryside. The rhythm of wheels on tracks, the gentle rocking of carriages and the ever-changing landscape outside the window. By the time I’m stepping on board my third Welsh steam train in a week, I’m well and truly chilled out.
Heritage railways appeal to all ages and interests, from the youngest fans of Thomas The Tank Engine to history buffs and engineering types. And nowhere does steam heritage quite like North Wales, where every line has its own unique atmosphere.
You don’t have to be a trainspotter to enjoy the heady blend of nostalgia and countryside, and many holidaymakers are hooked after their first trundle along the tracks. So if one train isn’t enough, why not book an organised mix of steam, sightseeing and scenery.
Where to go
I sampled the highlights of escorted itineraries from Great Rail Journeys (greatrail.com) and sister company Rail Discoveries (raildiscoveries.com). Both tours are based in the seaside resort of Llandudno, where a broad bay is backed by smartly painted seaside villas. If you prefer to do your own thing, Great Rail Independent can tailor-make an itinerary.
Just five minutes’ walk from Llandudno beach, the threestar Dunoon Hotel is friendly and family run, with spacious, traditional rooms. Stroll down the pier; catch the cable car or historic tram to the top of Great Orme for views towards Anglesey; and relax at one of Llandudno’s many cafes and restaurants. It’s hard to better the two AA Rosette fare of The Dunoon, but I also enjoyed the Italian menu at Wildwood.
The first train on my itinerary was a historic steam engine that once pulled freight in South Africa and now has a new lease of life with the Welsh Highland Railway. Leaving the station close to Caernarfon Castle, it climbs steadily into Snowdonia, while liveried trolley staff serve refreshments.
Time your trip right and independent travellers can jump off at the Snowdon Ranger halt to walk the fells, but I was happy to watch
Wales glide past the window. A reservoir here, a waterfall there. And everywhere, sheep, lambs and valley views. At Beddgelert, we left the train for the short drive to Portmeirion, a unique holiday resort built in Italian style by visionary architect Sir Clough WilliamsEllis between 1926 and 1976.
Location for the cult 1960s series The Prisoner, starring Patrick McGoohan, this eclectic village features random items of architecture imported from other buildings, as well as brightly coloured facades and 70 acres of sub-tropical woodland. Edward VII and
Mrs Simpson were guests; George Harrison held his 50th here; and Jools Holland is a regular. Stay in a hotel room or self-catering cottage, or just visit for a few hours, as we did, to enjoy the landscaped