Cruising Into The Heart Of Provence
Jeannine Williamson sails along the Rhône and Saône through the gastronomic heartland of France
The breeze blew through our hair and, seconds later, we watched two cheeky, baby bees soaring skyward over the picturesque, hilly vineyards of Beaujolais before diving down towards giant grapes. All this before a glass of the region’s fruity wine had even passed our lips…
This 4D cinema experience was part of a fascinating trip to Hameau Duboeuf – a theme park dedicated to Beaujolais wine at the old train-station site in Romanèche-Thorins. Local winemaker Georges Duboeuf founded the attraction, which showcases 2,000 years of vineyards and wine history, with thousands of exhibits including an 18th-century wine press.
We sampled different types of Beaujolais at the end of the tour – all of them excellent, and a far cry from the lightweight Beaujolais Nouveau raced into British restaurants after the harvest.
We’d arrived in Lyon the previous day to join Amadeus River Cruises’ brand-new ship Amadeus Provence, which sails along the rivers Rhône and Saône through some of the gastronomic heartlands of France, taking in Burgundy and Provence. Once a trading route for the Greeks and Romans, today’s cruises run along the southernmost stretches of the rivers.
The Saône, the chief tributary of the Rhône, winds its way through vine-clad countryside and picturesque towns, such as Chalon-surSaône, with its pretty halftimbered buildings, cathedral and a museum devoted to
local photography pioneer Joseph Niépce.
Other places of interest include Beaune, with its Hospices de Beaune hospital foundation. Dating from the Middle Ages, it’s one of France’s most prestigious historic monuments.
The cruise then travels south down the Saône, joining the Rhône at Lyon and passing through the picturesque, sunflower-filled landscapes that inspired artists such as Van Gogh, right down to Arles on the edge of the Camargue.
Van Gogh lived in Arles for a year from 1888, and painted famous works there including The Langlois Bridge, which is still instantly recognisable.
There are plenty of natural spectacles, too, most notably the Camargue Regional Nature Park, where you can see its most recognisable inhabitants – the famed white horses, pink flamingos and black bulls with distinctive upturned horns.
We had free time in the sun-bleached town of Saintes-Mariesde-la-Mer, the Camargue’s capital, named after three Catholic saint Marys.
At the market there, we bought nutty Camargue rice, tubs of local salt and Provençale rosé wine before strolling to the beach to paddle in the Med.
Ensuing days included trips to the breathtaking Gorges de l’Ardèche, with 1,000ft limestone cliffs, and the Chauvet-Pont-d’Arc Cave, a vast grotto containing the world’s oldest prehistoric art. Although not open to the public, reproductions of the paintings can be found in souvenir shops.
This area is renowned for its lavender. Pushing our baggage allowance to the limit, we bought lavenderflavoured nougat, sweets and olive oil, to name just a few of the products on sale.
Amadeus does not include daily excursions in the fare, which means you can do as much or as little as you please. It was a treat to have time to enjoy the lovely new ship and its facilities, which include a gym and massage room. We loved lazy afternoons on the sun deck and cooling dips in the infinity pool.
The menus included regional specialities, such as vichyssoise, coq au vin, Bresse chicken and French chocolate tart.
At night, we swapped stories about our days in the stylish Panorama Lounge, which, like the rest of the ship, echoes the colours of Provence. There was entertainment from the resident musical duo, and some fun quizzes, too.
This corner of France is a feast for the senses with its rich history and culture, coupled with world-famous wine and food – and this leisurely journey is a wonderful way to spend a week of your time.
The cruise travels south… passing through sunflower-filled landscapes