Cookery: Best-ever Christmas puds

Make this classic pud as far in advance as possible for a fully developed flavour.

Serves 8

✿ 100g (3½oz) dried apricots, finely chopped

✿ 100g (3½oz) dried cranberries

✿ 200g (7oz) sultanas, raisins or currants

✿ 100g (3½oz) prunes, finely chopped

✿ 75g (2½oz) blanched almonds, roughly chopped

✿ 50g (2oz) mixed candied peel, finely chopped

✿ 50g (2oz) candied ginger, finely chopped

✿ 1 Bramley apple, peeled, cored and grated

✿ Zest of 1 lemon

✿ Zest and juice of 1 orange

✿ 100ml (3½fl oz) brandy, rum, whisky or sweet sherry

✿ 75g (2½oz) unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing

✿ 75g (2½oz) light muscovado sugar

✿ 1 large egg, beaten

✿ 125g (4 oz) self-raising flour, sifted

✿ 1tsp each mixed spice, ground nutmeg and cinnamon

✿ Brandy butter, to serve

1 In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients in the list up to and including the alcohol. Cover and soak overnight.

2 Beat the butter and sugar in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Slowly add the egg, a little at a time, and beat until well combined. Fold in the soaked fruit and remaining ingredients.

3 Butter a 1.2L (2pt) pudding basin. Pour in the mixture, then cover the surface with a disc of greaseproof paper. Create a pleat in the centre of a double sheet of buttered foil, to allow the pudding to rise, and secure tightly around the basin rim with string.

4 Put an upturned saucer in a pan, sit the pudding on top of it, pour in enough water to come halfway up the basin’s sides. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and simmer for 4 hrs, checking and topping up with water as and when needed.

5 Allow to cool, turn out and cover with fresh greaseproof paper and clingfilm. Chill until needed.

6 To reheat, re-wrap the pudding in foil and steam for 1 hr 5 mins. Alternatively, you can pierce the clingfilm and microwave on high for 5 mins. Serve with brandy butter.