Drifting through FRANCE
For the ultimate in slow travel, Shelley Rubenstein hopped aboard a luxury barge to explore the French waterways
One of my favourite places to be is on the water, and having never been on a barging holiday, now was the perfect time to experience life on a floating hotel for the ultimate in slow travel. European Waterways offers several itineraries and routes, but the one that appealed the most involved drifting idyllically through Western Burgundy and the Upper Loire.
Largely attracting an American clientele, I invited my childhood friend Anthony along to keep up the Brits quota. Having spent the last couple of years tirelessly working as a nurse, I wanted to show my appreciation for his hard work with more than a hand clap.
Floating in style
Our home for the duration was the flagship Renaissance, which has been artfully designed to create a spacious, stylish and comfortable environment. The barge is full of character, with wooden beams and classy furniture helping to create a warm, homely atmosphere. The pièce de résistance, though, is the on-deck hot tub.
The five excellent crew members make a good staff-to-guest ratio, ensuring exceptionally high service standards throughout the trip.
After some delicious welcoming canapés and champagne, Captain Hadrien Famy led a tour around our first stop, the historic town of Montargis, known as the ‘Venice of the Gâtinais’, due to its network of canals and bridges. It’s full of French charm, with plenty of halftimbered houses and grander townhouses, and famed for its praline production, which began in Louis XIII’s reign.
We’re giddy with excitement the next morning when we set
sail for Montbouy, a 17thcentury lock where horses used to rest. Any residual stress melts away as we glide atop the calm water, and many hours are spent watching the bucolic world pass by as we admire some of France’s prettiest scenery.
Tours and tastings
One of the greatest appeals of this trip is access to fascinating sites and people. The first of these was a guided tour around UNESCO world heritage site, Château de Fontainebleau. We enjoyed a private visit to the stunning on-site theatre, which Napoleon III built for his wife, Eugenie. Inspired by Marie-Antoinette’s theatre at Versailles, this theatre was used only 15 times, but has recently been restored to its former glory.
Other highlights included raspberry-picking at Château de la Bussière, which houses a fishing museum; Sancerre wine-tasting in La Gazonne; witnessing some familiar sights from Alfred Sisley’s paintings in Moret-sur-Loing, and partaking in an impromptu twilight singalong, accompanied by talented crew member, Brian, on guitar.
The trip culminated with a showstopper finish when we coasted along the dramatic aqueduct of Briare, designed by Gustave Eiffel, attracting whooping spectators. The experience was like being on top of the world, which is exactly how we all felt after this trip full of cultural enrichment, relaxation, and fine wining and dining.