Skin & Hair
SUFFERING FROM SPOTTY BREAKOUTS? YOU MIGHT BE PRODUCING TOO MUCH OESTROGEN
The good news is your beauty regime can be as flexible as you need it to be,’ says facialist Debbie Thomas. ‘Use a core group of products and processes to address your everyday concerns, then use booster products at different times throughout the month to counteract hormonal issues.’
The week before your period (week four of the menstrual cycle) is when you experience a major testosterone spike. ‘This shift results in the skin’s sebaceous glands producing more oil, which can lead to blocked pores and breakouts,’ explains Dr Rabia Malik, cosmetic doctor and founder of The Peel Boutique at Grace Belgravia. Time for an acidbased action plan – namely salicylic, lactic and glycolic acids, which all come under the umbrella of AHA. These foodderived acids trigger the skin to slough off pore-blocking dead cells, making way for healthier skin cells – helping to reduce blemishes, blackheads and pigmentation. Try a daily toner like Algenist Genius Ultimate Anti-aging Bi-phase Peel (£68, spacenk.com) to keep breakouts at bay. For a targeted approach, a spotzapping treatment containing salicylic acid (we like Neostrata Spot Treatment Gel (£24, neostrata.co.uk) can be applied directly on to spots to dissolve dead skin cells that clog pores.
The same goes for your hair and scalp. ‘They’re set to get greasy quicker than usual – as testosterone is at its highest – so washing more frequently is a must,’ explains Jane Martins, trichologist at Philip Kingsley. Daily scalp exfoliation in week four is key to reducing dead skin cells, which can trap oil at the hair roots. Adding Philip Kingsley Exfoliating Scalp Mask, (£17, philipkingsley.co.uk) to your week-four regime will help, as it contains zinc to control sebum production and betaine salicylate acid to shift dead skin build-up.
After the high comes the low – when your period hits, your progesterone and oestrogen levels fall to their lowest. Frustratingly, rather than being a welcome relief, this drop can leave hair lacking moisture (and looking flat and lacklustre) and skin dry and sensitised, which highlights fine lines and wrinkles. Time to add hydrating powerhouses to your arsenal. Hyaluronic acid (HA) will replenish moisture levels, leaving skin plumper and smoother. HA attracts and holds on to water molecules and, when applied to skin, can help it do the same to combat dehydration. The Hero Project Night Drops (£45, theheroproject.co.uk) are just the ticket as they not only contain HA, but also wrinkle reducing niacinamide and nourishing essential oils, too.
As for your hair, meet manketti oil. It’s an incredibly rich source of vitamin E, which nourishes and protects hair. If you suffer from a heavy flow, you may be losing a lot of iron, so look to supplement your ferritin (a protein that binds to iron, making it easier for the body to store) levels to reduce hair shedding (for more, see page 91). Martins recommends incorporating red meat into your diet twice this week, and eating leafy green vegetables every day.
Thankfully, it’s not all grooming doom and gloom. ‘The end of week two and beginning of week three see a rise in oestrogen,’ says Dr Donnai. Pores shrink and collagen production increases. But if you experience breakouts in weeks two and three, when skin should be looking its best, you could be producing too much oestrogen. ‘Supplement with a 400-800mg daily dose of the herbal remedy Angus Castus. It balances oestrogen and progesterone levels,’ says Dr Sohère Roked, a specialist in integrative medicine.
That’s not to say levels won’t fluctuate, but you’ll at least produce the optimum amount of oestrogen at the right time.