FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Is it worth eating seasonally?

Seasonal eating: it’s on the lips of foodies everywhere, as well as on every farm shop chalkboard you’ll see. Sure, it’s a nice idea – there’s no doubt eating seasonally evokes warm fuzzies – but are there any health benefits beyond the good vibes?

Defra (the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs) defines food as seasonal if it’s been grown or produced outdoors during its natural growing period. But if we’re talking locally seasonal, this means the food is eaten in the same climate zone – not shipped elsewhere for sale. No more strawbs in December, then.

Advocates for seasonal eating claim the main benefit is taste – a freshly picked asparagus spear will always trump an older one that’s been imported out-ofseason. The same can be said for many fruit and veg. And if they taste good, you’ll probably eat more of them. Good news for your five-a-day goals.

Eating with the seasons is more budget-friendly, too. According to the governmentbacked campaign Eat Seasonably, a basket of fruit and veg bought in season can be up to a third cheaper than the same basket bought out of season.

And the sustainability argument also crops up (no pun intended). Growing food in season requires less input from artificial light and heat. In fact, the energy used to grow food out of season can result in more greenhouse gas emissions than growing the same food abroad in season and importing it to the UK. But if your globe-spanning veg drawer is giving you green guilt, know that the impact is smaller than you might think. A Swiss study compared the environmental impact of buying seasonally, reducing food waste, following a vegetarian diet and giving up luxury items. Turns out buying seasonally had the least impact. We can do more good by eating less red meat and ditching car journeys to the supermarket – more than half of food miles in the UK come from consumers driving to and from food shops.

But taste and environmental aspects aside, is seasonal eating any healthier? In some ways, yes. Nutrient levels in fruit and veg drop in storage and transport, making local seasonal food the better option because it reaches your plate in less time.

On the flip side, relying on produce grown in the UK during the cold months would mean adopting a fruit-free diet with limited vegetable intake. In a study by the World Wildlife Fund looking at the nutritional impact of eating only produce available in Britain in December, researchers found that while it was possible to meet nutritional requirements, it would be a pretty bland diet. To make it vaguely palatable, fruit imported from abroad or stored here in the UK (pears, for instance, can keep for up to three months in the right conditions) would be needed, along with a few tinned products. But life wouldn’t give you lemons or figs. Sad times.

The best approach is to make the most of what’s in season (favouring your bank account, taste buds and vitamin levels), and to top up with imported produce in the winter to make sure you’re still getting a varied diet. Thank lemons for that.