SETTING THE TONE
Make your skincare products work for your ethnicity
Walk into any beauty department and you’ll likely get a face full of scent from an overenthusiastic spritzer – but the assault can be psychological, too, thanks to a barrage of messages on posters, labels and leaflets about how you can transform the health of your skin. All part of the experience, sure – but the rub? There’s one major variable that has long been ignored by the beauty industry: the human complexion comes in a range of skin tones, each of which has a host of different needs, thanks to variations in oil glands, pigmentation and collagen levels. ‘When I looked at the science, I found differences in how best to treat different skin colours,’ says cosmetic doctor Barbara Sturm, who launched the world’s first luxury skincare line exclusively for darker skin. ‘For example, melanin, which makes the skin darker, also causes underlying inflammation, so women with darker skin have to be cautious when treating spots, for instance, to avoid further pigmentation.’ Skin colour is now a focus for global beauty brands, which are developing products targeting the needs of those from different ethnic backgrounds. In short, knowing your skin better – its strengths and its weaknesses – means less time and money wasted. Ready to get acquainted?
DARK
YOUR SKIN ISSUE
Overactive oil glands
Large oil glands, found on black skin, can cause inflammation, which makes conditions such as acne worse. It’s a vicious cycle: sebum gets trapped under the skin, causing imperfections while preventing more oil escaping to the skin’s surface. Dr Sturm found evidence that high levels of melanocytes (melaninforming cells responsible for darker pigment) causes extra inflammation. The takeaway? A regular cleanser won’t cut the mustard. You need to exfoliate with salicylic acid to help prevent clogging. It’s doubly effective, according to dermatologist Dr Rachael Eckel. ‘It will prevent acne and patchy skin in the first place,’ she says. But be careful with overzealous scrubbing – it can cause hyperpigmentation. ‘Black skin has melanosomes or “pigment packages” within cells that react aggressively to the slightest irritation,’ says skin therapist Shani Darden. One bit of good news is that darker skin has an SPF of about 12. But that’s not an excuse to skip the sunscreen. ‘Your skin might not burn (as quickly), but sunlight will cause inflammation and increase oil production,’ explains Dr Eckel. CLARIFYING CLEANSER Salicylic acid gently exfoliates skin cells without upsetting your natural moisture balance.
Dr. Barbara Sturm Darker Skin Tones Foam Cleanser, £53
POWER PRIMER
Silica and African tree bark diminish the appearance of pores, soak up excess oil and blur imperfections in this serum-to-powder primer. Bareminerals Combo Control Milky Face Primer, £25