KEEP WRINKLES AT BAY

The tools you need to freeze time – no, not Bernard’s watch

You know those women – the colleagues, friends or strangers who habitually buy their bread from the local Tesco at the same time as you – who constantly catch your eye? Your attention is invariably drawn to them, not because they showcase expertly applied make-up or mermaid hair, but due to their phenomenal skin. Glowing, dewy, healthy skin. Their secret? Most dermatologists would take a punt that it’s down to eschewing a wait-and-see approach – that is, pre-empting ageing concerns with investment in skincare. So says dermatologist Dr Harold Lancer (whose Beverly Hills office is frequented by Kim Kardashian, Margot Robbie and Brie Larson), who defines his twenty-to-thirty-something clients as the ‘what-if’ generation. They’re asking questions like, ‘I may not have lines on my forehead now, but what if I get them when I’m 40?’ Interested in keeping your skin in the best shape possible? Read on.

COMMIT TO CELL PROTECTION

Yes, you’ve heard it all before. But do you do it? ‘Sunscreen is the number one preventative cream you can use right now,’ says New York dermatologist Dr Robert Anolik. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, 90% of skin ageing comes from the sun. Oh, man. Sure, tropical holidays require more diligent protection, but Dr Anolik points out that it’s actually cumulative daily bursts of UV exposure that will fasttrack wrinkles, brown spots and blotchiness. And don’t rely on the SPF in your moisturiser or foundation. Unless it’s at least 30 – like Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturizer SPF30, £26 – you’re better off adding a standalone SPF product to your daily routine. We like Murad City Skin Age Defense Broad Spectrum SPF50, £55.

SWERVE BLUE LIGHT

HEV (the blue light emitted by your phone, laptop and tablet) can penetrate deep beneath the skin and damage elastin and collagen. Plus, blue light reduces sleep quality, lowering your skin’s ability to regenerate. Your chances of a permanent digital detox are slim, so turn to antiblue-light beauty. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue Defence Radiant Tint Protective Moisturiser, £35, contains antioxidant-rich cocoa extract and Skinceuticals Phloretin CF, £150, is a vitamin C serum that refines skin texture; both protect against the effects of HEV. Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Concentrate Matrix, £49, is designed to support nighttime renewal.

MIND WHAT YOU EAT

‘The gut and the skin are intimately connected,’ says dermatologist Dr Whitney Bowe. ‘Toxins from your gut are released into your bloodstream and trigger inflammation system-wide, including in the skin.’ If your gut bacteria are out of whack, your complexion will appear dull – no matter how religiously you cleanse, tone, moisturise and the rest. Or, worse, you’ll experience outbreaks of acne, eczema or rosacea. According to Dr Bowe, the solution is to adopt a diet rich in probiotics (yoghurt, fermented foods, tempeh), prebiotics (bananas, oats, flaxseeds) and healthy fibre (nuts, seeds and beans), which will rebalance your gut’s beneficial flora. She also suggests taking a probiotic supplement containing multiple strains of 10 to 15 billion colony-forming units, working your way up to 50 billion. ‘You see significant changes in your gut microbiome in as little as three days, but it can take a few weeks for those differences to translate to your face,’ she says. Try Genuine Health Advanced Gut Health Probiotic, £32.26, or Symprove Live And Active Water Based Bacteria, £21.95.

RESURFACE ON THE REGULAR

Dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams swears by retinoids. The vitamin A derivatives are backed by years of science affirming their ability to boost cell turnover, which diminishes pigmentation, ups collagen production, lessens fine lines, improves texture and reduces the appearance of pores and breakouts by increasing cell turnover. But the potential side effects – redness, irritation, dryness and flaking – mean many people stop using retinol before the skin can reap its benefits. The key is to start slowly. ‘I advise using a retinoid just twice a week in the evening,’ she says. And don’t slather it on. ‘A pea-sized amount is enough to cover the face, and a mild moisturiser can be applied on top after five minutes if you need more hydration,’ she advises. ‘Over time, the frequency can be increased to every other night and, if tolerated, daily.’ If you don’t want to use a pure retinoid, try gentler, over-the-counter vitamin A derivatives, such as retinyl-retinoate (try Medik8 r-retinoate Youth Activating Cream, £135, for normal to combination skin), retinol (Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3, £55, is good for combination to oily skin) and retinaldehyde (look to Avène Physiolift Night Smoothing Regenerating Balm, £26, for dry skin).

START SMALL TO SEE A DIFFERENCE

Let’s be clear: this is not a call to action for Botox, but there’s no denying expert opinion that using the treatment in a preventative way is a credible course of action. ‘By doing mini treatments more frequently, you prevent facial muscles in those areas from creating deeper lines in the future,’ say Dr Lancer. He injects microdoses of muscleinhibiting neuromodulators, such as Botox, Xeomin or Dysport, at the sites of ‘could-be’ lines – the frown lines between the brows, crow’s feet and on the forehead. When it comes to hyaluronic acid-based filler, the placement and amount are far more specific and subtle. Cosmetic doctor and GP Dr Johanna Ward agrees that there is a lot to be gained from microdosing. ‘Smaller doses of Botox mean you get less obvious effects,’ she says. ‘Small amounts of filler (at a younger age) can boost the skin’s hydration and collagen quality. The ideal type of fillers are “skin boosters” – they don’t do any structural lifting or filling, but hydrate and support skin at a general level.’ Juvederm Volite, Restylane Vital and Profhilo are her recommended brands. Dr Ward has one caveat when it comes to preventative ageing, though: ‘It’s a fine line – I always tell people not to use up all of their ammunition too early. Start with effective, high-performance skincare and sun protection, then maybe consider light doses of Botox and skin-boosting fillers,’ she says.

MAKE MUSCLE, NOT LINES

There are 40-plus muscles in your face, and strengthening specific ones can help naturally sculpt high cheekbones and a defined jawline. One option is electrostimulation, which has long been used to medically treat Bell’s palsy but has now gained traction among the skincareobsessed. Fitspo cool girls like Hannah Bronfman of HBFIT and Bec Donlan of Sweat With Bec are fans of New York facialist Shamara Bondaroff’s microcurrent facials. According to Bondaroff, the benefits of muscle-stimulating sessions every four to eight weeks include the ‘instant gratification of tighter, more lifted skin and long-term results – I have clients who stop getting Botox or filler’, she says. In the UK, Facegym – whose clients include Rita Ora – offers its Signature Electrical treatment for £85. Targeting the ‘forgotten 40’ muscles, it uses high-and-low frequency waves that allow for deeper muscle penetration with a more comfortable sensation than a traditional microcurrent. You can add electrostimulation to your at-home routine with the ZIIP Golden Conductive Gel Treatment, £425, nanocurrent home device. And the cult-status brand recently launched Silver Gel, £45, a serum that boosts conductivity to channel the cell-energising electricity to where it’s needed. But you have to stick at it. ‘Electrostimulation can enhance your skin, but you have to use a home device twice daily indefinitely,’ says Dr Lancer. ‘It’s not like doing one press-up a year is going to make a difference.’ True that.