LAYING IT ON THICK?

By plying your face with thick, unctuous moisturisers, you could actually be giving your skin the green light to switch off. Here’s how to call your complexion to attention…

Giving your skin too much of a helping hand could make it lazy. Here’s why less is more

You have a lovely face,’ the facialist says, pinching your cheeks and analysing your skin under a less-than-forgiving light. ‘It’s plump to touch, which indicates it’s full of collagen.’ Just as your mouth forms a smug grin, she drops a bombshell: ‘But I can tell just by looking at it that your skin is lazy.’ Say what?

While lazy may be a fair analysis of your favouring food and box sets over social plans and the gym, with regards to your face, it feels a bit, well, harsh. Chances are you’ve spent years following strict daily routines and trying out every miracle moisturiser in the book, so how can your skin be lazy?

Facialist Kate Kerr explains that, when it comes to skincare, too much of a good thing can be quite the opposite. By loading your face with products that do the hard work for you – think thick moisturisers and oils – your skin becomes lax. What you need, Kerr argues, are products that give your skin the tools it needs to do a better job on its own. Or rather, to stop handing your skin everything on a plate and give it a kick up the epidermis.

‘It has been ingrained in us from a young age to supplement our skin with lots of moisturiser,’ Kerr notes. ‘We think all skin types need this, but in most cases, the skin is capable of maintaining its own hydration levels. Over-moisturising your skin’s surface sends a signal to its water reservoirs to halt production. When that happens, the skin becomes sluggish and actually lacking in moisture, which makes you reach for even creamier formulas, exacerbating the problem.’ Medical doctor and specialist dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams agrees: ‘Overloading the skin with too-rich, heavy and occlusive textures (which form a film on the skin) can clog pores and slow down the skin’s vital, natural surface renewal.’

Telltale signs of lazy skin include dryness, tightness, dullness, congestion and reactive, breakout-prone skin – all symptomatic of sluggish cell renewal (when old cells linger, preventing shiny new cells from coming forward). It’s not a world away from ‘hangover’ skin – the tired, lacklustre appearance you put down to one too many G&TS the night before. But when it lingers longer than the actual hangover, you know your skin isn’t just feeling worse for wear, it’s lazy. You might not even notice at first, but those dead cells create a layer of tiny blockers that stop

your skin from reflecting light, meaning they basically steal your glow. Thanks for that.

On the other hand, skin that’s balanced, calm and working hard to keep up cell renewal appears lit from within. If that’s the endgame, Dr Williams recommends going back to basics. ‘Applying too many products with different textures suffocates your skin, so I’m sceptical about the current trend of applying layer upon layer of skincare – sometimes upwards of 10,’ she says. This will compromise optimal absorption of active ingredients and risks the products interacting. Instead, Dr Williams advises sticking to three layers, especially if you have oily, reactive skin. ‘And always use the lightest formulations you can get away with without skin feeling dry.’

With this approach, thick, heavy creams are counterintuitive, and oils (which Kerr says congest skin, upset moisture processes and prevent product penetration) are a no-go. To get the hydration boost your skin needs, look to a product with naturally occurring ingredients like urea, low-to-medium levels of glycerine and hyaluronic acid – ZO Skin Health, La Roche-posay and The Ordinary are just some proponents of this. ‘These ingredients are part of your skin’s natural moisturising mechanisms, so they don’t upset the skin’s functionality when applied topically,’ Kerr promises. ‘Remember that, even without a heavy moisturiser, skin isn’t bare if you use active serums that help prevent and correct skin conditions.’

That said, there is one particular skin type that both Kerr and Dr Williams agree definitely benefits from these heavier formulations: truly dry skin. The problem is that many women think their skin falls into this category, when really it could be those dead skin cells getting comfy. ‘Only 10 to

15% of the population have truly genetically dry skin because their skin’s moisturising processes aren’t able to function effectively,’ explains Kerr. ‘They have always had dry skin, have never had any problems with acne or excessive oil flow, and are often prone to eczema and dermatitis. For them, a moisturiser with a perfect ratio of lipids, proteins and water, such as Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 (£130) is needed.

Equally, just because you feel your skin is dry and tight, it doesn’t necessarily mean it is; chances are it’s just dehydrated. ‘This feeling can also be a sign of micro-inflammation, as we often see in rosacea-prone skin,’ explains Dr Williams. ‘In these cases, slathering on rich moisturisers might make the rosacea worse.’ If you’re blighted by rosacea and hot, flushed cheeks that can be sore, make-up may cover it, but the underlying issue needs to be addressed. For both rosacea and acne-prone skin, it’s imperative to treat the inflammation, rather than just soothe the sensation with skincare that causes trouble down the line. ‘I sometimes hear advice to apply coconut or other oils on acne-prone skin– that’s the worst thing you could do as it will clog pores and aggravate the acne,’ warns Dr Williams.

But what about those with lucky skin? Or rather ‘normal’ skin that doesn’t cause much bother and just gets on with it, no matter what you throw its way? If it still looks a little dull, it’s most probably a result of stifled cell renewal leading to lazy skin behaviour and dehydration. In other words, no skin type gets off scot-free.

Give your skin the motivation (and aforementioned kick) it needs to get moving optimally with a topical regime that focuses on cell renewal. Vitamin A derivatives such as retinol and retinaldehyde stimulate cells, making them behave like healthier, younger versions of themselves. Topical exfoliators such as Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting Exfoliant (£26) and Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator (£85) will help rid you of the surface-glow thieves and reveal brighter skin underneath. Alpha-hydroxy acids (eg, glycolic or lactic acid) or polyhydroxy acids (which have larger molecules that are gentler on skin) will get things going in the right direction (try Zelens

PHA+ Bio-peel Resurfacing Facial Pads, £65). For moisture, aim for a hearty dose of hyaluronic acid and always use a protective antioxidant and SPF.

‘Overloading the skin with too-rich, heavy and occlusive textures can clog pores’

Your skin is a clever organ and it will tell you when it’s not happy

If you want to pull out the big guns, try a dermatology-grade facial. Eudelo’s Fit Skin Forever involves a combination of a mild chemical peel, advanced microdermabrasion and the extraction of blocked pores. Such treatments will speed up the process, but be warned: rebooting your skin with an effective skincare routine won’t happen overnight. This is a longer-term investment with longer-term benefits, which you’ll need to commit to in order to reach your goal. Think of it as a skin marathon, not a sprint.

‘Expect a noticeable difference within six weeks – and a big one within 18 weeks, once three skin cycles have taken place. During the transition period, you might notice your skin feels tighter, perhaps a little flaky, and products may tingle very slightly. But don’t quit – that means it’s working,’ promises Kerr.

The anti-cream stance has serious science to back it up, but it’s important to note that rich formulations feature in almost every big-name brand at beauty counters around the world – and many have earned their status because women love what they do for their skin. One such devotee in the WH office agrees: ‘You can give me all the scientific serums and lotions you like, I’m never going to give up my thick, buttery moisturiser.

It’s like a comfort blanket for my face.’

Then there’s make-up. The rallying cry of the world’s best backstage make-up artists is ‘great make-up starts with great skincare’, and these experts line their stations with thick creams, silky balms, sunshine-tinted oils and French-pharmacy classics. Why? Because these formulations give skin instant results – immediate slip, slide and hydration that allows make-up to glide on seamlessly. There’s no doubt they deliver in the moment, but long-term, what makes them so effective could potentially be their downfall.

Ultimately, whether you favour long-term skin balance or an instant selfie complexion, your skin is a clever organ and it’ll tell you when it’s not happy. If it’s giving you what you want (within reason – perfect skin is a myth), keep on doing what you’re doing. If it’s easily agitated, congested and duller than you’d like, there’s a good chance you’re experiencing lazy skin and it’s up to you to get it moving and motivated again. Going back to basics and applying renewing formulations that get your cell turnover into boot-camp mode is the best way to start. So long, lazy skin.