FORCE OF NATURE
A plant extract is being billed as the key to youthful skin. But can bakuchiol offer a gentle legitimate alternative to game-changing retinol?
Could bakuchiol be the natural contender for retinol’s crown?
F E AT U R E S
The trajectory of a skincare ingredient supremo goes a little like this: it crops up in the formulas of a few niche products, dermatologists and skincare experts start singing its praises and preliminary scientific research checks out. Hype begins to spread via beauty editors, the R&D departments of mainstream brands catch on and consumers lap up the claims and share first-hand results better than they were expecting – all of which combine to give rise to a bona fide game changer.
What follows is just as predictable – that a slew of ‘natural’ copycats hit the market, claiming to deliver the same results, if not better, thanks to advanced formulas and cheaper price points. It happened with vitamin C, where kakadu plum became a contender, while witch hazel has been billed as a gentle alternative to salicylic acid. And now? It’s the turn of retinol, the vitamin A derivative widely recognised as the holy grail for enhancing skin renewal, brightening skin tone, reducing acne and boosting collagen production. Because popping up in the opposing corner is the compound bakuchiol (pronounced bah-koo-chee-all), found in the seeds of the plant Psoralea corylifolia and traditionally used in Eastern medicine for its calming and healing properties on the skin. Late last year, findings published in the British Journal Of Dermatology suggested that it could offer proportionate skin-boosting benefits to synthetic retinol, but without the redness, peeling and irritation that many consider retinol’s one downfall. Of course, brands jumped to add it to their anti-ageing formulas and consumer searches went through the roof. The question is, is it worth it?
To actually get bakuchiol, it pays to wrap your head around retinol. Since the 80s, retinol has been hailed by the beauty industry as the most efficacious ingredient at waging war on wrinkles and obliterating breakouts.
Its prowess lies in its ability to rapidly speed up cell turnover, which is fundamental to skin that is healthy, glowing and smooth.
While exfoliating acids work by dissolving the surface layers of the skin, triggering the production of new cells from deeper layers to replace those lost, retinol instead binds itself to receptors within the skin cells, revving up the production of new cells so much so that the top layer sheds to reveal brighter, healthier skin. Therein lies retinol’s biggest pro, and its biggest con, because with that skin shedding often comes major irritation. It’s why retinol is prescribed evangelically by professional dermatologists and leading facialists, but when it comes to Diying it with products at home, it’s always recommended to introduce it slowly, upping the dosage over time, and accepting the redness, dry patches and flaking as part of
the process. ‘Many people don’t follow guidance and mistakenly introduce too much too soon, or use it without a moisturising cleanser and a hydrating cream beforehand to create a barrier,’ says dermatologist and founder of the Cranley Clinic Dr Nick Lowe. ‘It means the skin becomes aggravated and the user gives up, not willing to continue, before the retinol can produce a proper, positive impact.’
No wonder then that bakuchiol is putting an entirely new cross on the skincare map. ‘This plant-based ingredient bears no structural resemblance to retinol, but multiple studies have shown that they function in very similar ways, generating the same gene expression in the skin, which, crucially, bakuchiol does without the irritation,’ explains Dan Isaacs, formulator and development director at Medik8. Indeed, research published in the International Journal Of Cosmetic Science tested bakuchiol and retinol for their effects on hyperpigmentation and wrinkles and found that not only did they both significantly reduce wrinkles, but after 12 weeks, 59% of the participants trialling bakuchiol showed further improvement in the reduction of hyperpigmentation, compared with only 44% of those testing retinol. Plus, only the participants using retinol self-reported side effects, such as skin scaling and stinging. ‘It hasn’t been determined from a biochemical standpoint why bakuchiol doesn’t cause irritation,’ says Isaacs. ‘However, we do know that it’s able to block the inflammatory response in skin cells to help minimise redness and irritation.’ Retinol’s other problem is that it can only be worn at night, as it breaks down and deactivates in sunlight and
‘Bakuchiol bears no structural resemblance to retinol, but they function in very similar ways’
increases your skin’s sensitivity to UV rays, too, which doesn’t fly for bakuchiol. ‘The compound is photostable, so will never lose its potency in daylight and, because it’s a powerful antioxidant, it may even help to protect the skin from damaging free radicals produced by UV rays,’ adds Isaacs. While it’s no replacement for SPF, bakuchiol neatly dovetails with the rest of your skincare arsenal because it can be applied either in the morning or before bed.
Sounds legit. However, experts will counter that research into bakuchiol’s positive effect on the skin is in its infancy, especially when compared with the wealth of science that backs up retinol.
Nina Goad, a spokesperson for the British Association of Dermatologists, flags that the primary study bakuchiol proponents are touting involved only 44 participants, so the results, while impressive, need to be beefed up with larger trials.
‘Because it’s a powerful antioxidant, bakuchiol may help to protect you from UV damage’
Dr Lowe agrees. ‘The study doesn’t specify whether the participants had sensitive skin, and bakuchiol was only compared with retinol, and not retinoic acid (a stronger percentage available only on prescription by a derm), which is the gold standard for antiageing. If used correctly, nothing can beat it.’
Bakuchiol isn’t a pretender, but a competitor with an impressive, if short, CV. Ideal for those who’ve never dabbled in retinol, or those who can’t quite bear the side effects, it’s becoming increasingly available in mainstream products that are worth a try. Refuse to sideline your retinol? Then, don’t. The labs of skincare leaders, such as Medik8, Murad and Environ are working hard to produce technologies that diminish side effects without compromising on results. The only thing left to do is decide which camp you belong to.