Women's Health (UK)

Do you need to bother using a toner in your routine?

- Dr Johanna Ward, cosmetic doctor and founder of ZENII skincare

‘Cleanse, tone and moisturise’ has long been a mainstream beauty mantra.

The belief was that a toner removed anything your cleanser left behind, shrank pores and restored skin’s ph balance prior to the applicatio­n of serums and creams. Then two things happened. First, beauty regimes got more and more complicate­d, so using a toner fell out of fashion. Second, toners began to get a bad reputation. Many formulatio­ns contained high levels of alcohol, making them drying – not exactly conducive to a glowing complexion. Thankfully, the majority of brands went back to the drawing board, reformulat­ing their toners to make them alcohol-free and boosting them with active ingredient­s in order to supercharg­e your skincare routine. So, are they worth adding back in? Here’s all you need to know.

WHAT EXACTLY IS A TONER?

A toner is a liquid-based formula you sweep across your face using a cotton pad. Applied after cleansing, it’s left on the skin rather than washed off. While it’s not strictly necessary, it can be a great addition to a high-performanc­e skincare routine. Toners penetrate fast, delivering a quick hit of hydration and helping to remove dead skin cells. With ingredient­s such as antioxidan­ts and acids, they provide an extra dose of nourishmen­t and fortificat­ion. They can also help to address skin concerns such as dryness, congestion and sensitivit­y.

HOW DO THEY WORK?

Let’s return to those old beliefs, then. Firstly, a toner should never be deployed to finish off the job of your cleanser. If your toner is removing traces of make-up, then you need to double cleanse. Nor are toners able to close your pores. As the saying goes, ‘pores are not doors’ – they don’t open and close. You can minimise their appearance, though, with regular cleansing and by deploying a salicylic acid toner, which works to flush out dirt and oil.

A toner is essentiall­y the skincare equivalent of a make-up primer. By bringing your skin back to its natural acidic state and sweeping some dead cells away, your skin is better prepped for the products that follow. Think of your skin as a dry sponge: if you put a heavy duty moisturise­r on it, then it won’t sink in, but if you make it damp first, it’ll sink in more easily. The great thing about toners is that anyone can use them.

And as their benefits are as wide-ranging as those of serums, it’s all about finding the right one for your skin type or concerns.

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