YOUR OWN DEVICES

Responding to a need for a distanced approach to beauty, brands are delivering devices that claim to do everything from rebooting collagen production to cleaning out pores. But can the tech in your bathroom cabinets really rival a clinical treatment?

Get tooled up with the best at-home high-tech beauty kit

LED LIGHT THERAPY MASKS

WHAT’S THE DEAL?

Granted, these look like something out of Blade Runner, but advances in the use of LEDS (light emitting diodes) has led to their clinical application in various medical and cosmetic practices, all of which you can now enjoy from the comfort of your own living room. ‘LED phototherapy uses lights that penetrate the skin at different depths to help target all kinds of skin concerns,’ says aesthetic doctor Lauren Hamilton. The treatment is non-invasive and suitable for all skin types, though it’s worth seeking medical advice if you have a known skin condition, such as eczema or psoriasis.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Light alters the skin in a process called photobiomodulation and, just as UV rays from the sun can be harmful, some wavelengths of visible light alter skin for the better. This is the goal of LED masks, which emit visible wavelengths of light that sit between 400 and 700 nanometers on the electromagnetic spectrum, with the colours that sit at the higher end penetrating the skin the most deeply. Blue light sits around the 400 mark and its antibacterial properties make it useful as an acne treatment (see page 20 for more); red light penetrates deeper into the skin to boost collagen production by increasing blood circulation, as well as reduce inflammation by stimulating the skin’s mitochondria. Infrared light starts at 700 on the spectrum, meaning it penetrates the deepest. ‘As a result, it has anti-inflammatory, antiageing properties and wound-healing effects,’ adds Dr Hamilton.

WHAT’S THE PRO ALTERNATIVE?

‘In-clinic LED devices are more powerful than at-home ones,’ says Dr Hamilton. However, if you use the masks more regularly at home, then they’ll have a cumulative benefit. It’s worth noting that you should avoid these masks if you have underlying eye conditions or are taking medications that make skin more sensitive to light, such as antibiotics like doxycycline, as they can potentially cause eye injuries.

TRY:

Current Body Skin LED Light Mask, £349 This device combines red and near-infrared LED light to help reduce signs of ageing. Studies have shown that wrinkles are reduced by 35% after four weeks of use.

DIY DERMAPLANING

WHAT’S THE DEAL?

Not a hair removal treatment, but an intense form of exfoliation. At-home dermaplaning devices tend to use sterile, precisely positioned blades alongside sonic vibrations to gently remove dead skin cells. Some brands have designed them with a safety guide to stop you going too deep, though it’s worth noting that anyone with a skin infection or breaks in their skin, such as active breakouts, wouldn’t be suited to dermaplaning.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Skincare formulations use alpha hydroxy acids (AHAS), such as glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid, to chemically slough away dead cells and exfoliate the skin. Dermaplaning devices, on the other hand, exfoliate the skin by physically removing dead skin cells. ‘The top layer of the skin is, in essence, shaved off,’ says Debbie Thomas, advanced skin and laser expert. The complexion is left feeling softer and smoother, and skincare products penetrate deeper because they don’t have to work their way through dead cells on the skin’s surface.

WHAT’S THE PRO ALTERNATIVE?

If you go to a clinic for dermaplaning, it’ll likely involve using a more heavyduty device and the aesthetician will be able to exfoliate at a deeper level, thanks to their expert eye and skilled hand. The pro treatment is also more effective because, unless you have sensitive skin, your aesthetician may well combine dermaplaning with a peel, making it easier to lift off the dead cells. Dr David Jack, for example, is able to create a bespoke treatment that uses lactic acid for dry skin, mandelic for pigmentation or azelaic for rosacea.

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Hollywood Smoother, £49.99 The vibrations offered by this electronic dermaplaning device stimulate blood flow and make for an easier process than a manual alternative. The stainless steel edge is also impervious to rust.

ON-DEMAND SKINCARE

WHAT’S THE DEAL?

Aside from the tranquil music and heavenly decor, the benefit of opting for a spa facial is that the products used are far more potent than those in your beauty cabinet. The facialist can also make your treatment bespoke, giving you fast results. Imagine, then, if you could concoct highly concentrated personalised formulations in your own bathroom. This is the promise of on-demand skincare brand Duolab.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

After scanning your face (you just have to take a selfie), the Duolab app recommends active ingredients that will suit your skin’s needs. You then receive a 28-day routine along with a supply of formula capsules that contain the actives. Simply slot the skincare capsules into a device and, in 90 seconds, the machine blends together a daily dose of face cream that you use morning and night. Like a Nespresso machine, but for your face. The capsules are designed to be mixed and matched, with 15 different combinations available. For example, the refining formula uses AHAS for gentle exfoliation, while the soothing solution uses ingredients to help solve irritation, so you don’t need any other serums or treatments. The formula is also heated to complement your skin temperature, which is said to help it penetrate your skin more effectively.

WHAT’S THE PRO ALTERNATIVE?

Is this device any better than getting regular facials with a therapist? Yes and no. ‘From a wellbeing perspective, getting a facial is hugely de-stressing, but you also receive professional advice on how to deal with your skin daily, and your facialist can target key skin concerns over time for an overall improved complexion,’ says celebrity facialist Ada Ooi. But since access to facialists is inconsistent in an age of tiers and lockdowns, on-demand skincare is the next best thing for those who want bespoke and hardworking skincare.

TRY:

Duolab, £250 With 15 possible combinations, every skin type and concern is covered and, because the formulas are freshly mixed, there’s no need for preservatives, which can irritate skin.

SKINCARE MISTING

WHAT’S THE DEAL?

Still applying product with your hands? Welcome to 2021. The latest wave of beauty gadgets offer a hands-free service. Think of it as a spray tan, but for actives. Not only is this delivery system said to be more potent, it also reduces product waste – aka the stuff you can’t access at the bottom of the container. Similar to the Duolab machine, you slot the skincare capsules into the device. Next, you hold it up to your face and wait for it to mist an ultra-fine veil that delivers the active ingredients to the skin in their most concentrated form (no need for water or carrier ingredients here), as well as sealing in moisture.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Mister machines contain a delivery system that diffuses particles 50 times smaller than a regular spray. A win for your skin because the smaller the droplets, the easier it is for the dermis to absorb them. The device also contains an electromagnetic coil, which changes the electrical charge of the formula’s droplets so that they weigh less. This has also been proven to amplify the rate of absorption into the skin and therefore boost the effects of the active ingredients. The formulations are highly potent and target a range of skincare concerns, from pollution to dehydration.

WHAT’S THE PRO ALTERNATIVE?

This technology has been specifically designed for at-home use and there aren’t any pro alternatives that compare. It’s a prime example of how DIY beauty tech can revolutionise your routine.

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Réduit Spa, £179 This chiclooking device, made from aluminium and medical-grade silicone, uses recyclable Skinpods (£28.90 each) that target everything from blemishes to ageing, dullness and dryness.

NEXT-GEN GUA SHA

WHAT’S THE DEAL?

Hailing from traditional Chinese medicine, traditional gua sha involves sliding a flat smooth crystal across the skin. The latest tools are made of stainless steel, the idea being that the slightly heavier weight of the steel optimises results by working the skin and muscles harder.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Applying pressure via specific movements helps to release blockages in the muscles, skin and fascia (connective tissue), aiding lymphatic drainage and reducing toxins to depuff the skin and soften fine lines. Small-scale studies have shown gua sha increases blood circulation and blood volume in your face, which can speed up collagen production. Results are instant and, with continued long-term use, it can help to lift sagging facial muscles and restore optimal circulation for a complexion that glows.

WHAT’S THE PRO ALTERNATIVE?

There are benefits to having gua sha carried out by a professional facialist. ‘Instead of just gua sha by itself, the treatment will be a tailored gua sha routine that combines other techniques, such as lymphatic drainage, cross-friction massage and soft tissue manipulation, to lift, drain and sculpt,’ explains Ooi. ‘My experience and skills mean I’m aware of how different movements and pressure can affect your facial contours in different ways, but that isn’t to say you can’t achieve a similar effect by doing gua sha yourself with your own tools.’

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Facegym Multi-sculpt, £45 This new age metal gua sha tool has six distinct edges so that you can give your skin a proper workout. Not sure where to begin? The tool comes with a QR code that gives you access to easy-to-follow tutorials so that you can ace eight specific movements.

FACIAL TONING DEVICES

WHAT’S THE DEAL?

‘Microcurrent facial devices can help tone up your muscles, which can give a lifting effect,’ explains Thomas. ‘The stimulation will also boost circulation, which helps promote a healthier-looking complexion.’ Though, she notes that they should be avoided if you have a medical condition, are pregnant or have recently had a laser treatment or chemical peel. If in doubt, chat to a dermatologist.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

These clever gadgets emit electrical currents that mimic the body’s own electrical signals (yep, your cells conduct electricity), increasing the amount of adenosine triphosphate (ATP), a molecule that carries energy within cells, by as much as 500%. It’s the increased levels of ATP that speed up cellular metabolism, stimulate protein synthesis and reconstruct collagen and elastin, helping to repair the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines. They also stimulate facial muscles, which can tone and lift the contours of the face, as if it’s had a workout.

WHAT’S THE PRO ALTERNATIVE?

Plenty of clinics offer stronger microcurrent facials, but Thomas believes you can build up good results using a DIY device regularly. However, if you’ve had Botox or fillers, you may not notice much of a difference when using a microcurrent device. This is because the muscles can’t contract if they’ve been injected with Botox, and fillers create lasting volume, so there isn’t much to tone and lift in the first place.

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Foreo Bear, £279 This is one of the softest facial-toning devices around. The pocket-sized personal trainer for your face measures your skin’s resistance to electricity and adjusts the voltage intensity to eliminate any chance of shocking your skin.

PORE VACUUMS

WHAT’S THE DEAL?

‘An effective pore vacuum will mimic the effect of professional clinical extraction methods, helping to remove blackheads in the comfort of your own home,’ says celebrity facialist Sarah Chapman (who’s rumoured to count Meghan Markle and Victoria Beckham among her clients).

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Pore vacuums use suction to pull dirt out of pores, but they can be tricky to use without proper training. ‘It’s not so much the devices, but how people use them that causes issues,’ says Thomas. ‘Many people end up pushing it too hard against the skin, hoping for a better result, but end up going too far.’ The risks of doing so include pushing the blockage deeper, making spots worse, bruising and broken capillaries.

WHAT’S THE PRO ALTERNATIVE?

‘Professional extractions, when done correctly, get the deeper blockages out without damaging skin,’ says Thomas. At-home devices work more on a superficial level, removing surface grime from pores, which will be replaced within just a few days.

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Sarah Chapman London Pro Pore Refiner, £128 The gold standard of pore vacuums, this uses three steps to warm and soften the skin. Ultrasonic vibrations loosen congested pores, then focused suction works to purge oil and dirt.