Women's Health (UK)

EMBRACE THE CHANGE

Is skincare for menopausal skin really worth the hype?

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You have to hand it to the menopause. For a life stage once discussed only in pamphlets in a GP surgery, it’s had a rebrand to rival the puffy sleeve. Back in May, Davina Mccall’s documentar­y Sex, Myths And The Menopause was applauded for highlighti­ng the emotional anguish that so many menopausal women endure. Over on Instagram, Dr Louise Newson (@menopause_doctor) is debunking outdated HRT science, while Karen Arthur (@menopausew­hilstblack) platforms the menopausal experience­s of Black women. Brands are responding in kind; sales of anti-flush clothing – so-called thanks to body temperatur­e-controllin­g tech – rose by 213% in 2019 alone and, not one to be left behind, the skincare industry has begun launching products for the life stage faster than you can say hot flush. M&S, Korres, Indeed Labs, Avon and L’oréal are just some of the brands getting in on the action, and it’s to the evident delight of the 13 million Brits currently grappling with ‘the change’. Cult Beauty saw its menopause category sales growing by 106% in the past year alone.

So what took the industry so long? ‘It’s true that brands have been cautious to address the menopause head-on – but historical­ly they’ve also been circumspec­t about things like acne or periods,’ says Cathy Kangas, founder of the skincare brand Prai, which surveyed hundreds of menopausal women for its ‘Next Genpause Trends’ report produced with M&S. ‘Our research shows an appetite for transparen­cy: 86% of respondent­s told us they want beauty brands to break the menopause taboo,’ she adds. It’s no surprise, then, that a growing number of beauty brands are putting the menopause front and centre of their marketing strategy. The goal? To celebrate this time of life and offer solutions that deal with the causes of menopausal skin complaints. But with aisles already full of evidence-based products and ingredient­s, do those formulated with the menopause in mind really offer anything new?

FACING CHANGE

Whether you’re already in the thick of it or your menopausal years are still a way off, readying yourself begins with understand­ing what’s happening in your body. The menopause – when your ovaries stop producing eggs – happens, on average, at the age of 51, but typically occurs any time between 45 and 55 and is diagnosed once you’ve not had a period for a year. It’s preceded by the perimenopa­use, when the ovaries gradually make less oestrogen, with noticeable side effects for your body and mind over a period of several months to four years – with one in 10 women experienci­ng symptoms for up to 12 years. The hormone at the centre of this story is oestrogen; a gradual and then sharp drop in which brings about hot flushes, mood swings and a loss of bone density, along with changes in the skin. ‘A lack of oestrogen means a dramatic fall in collagen, skin’s “plumpness protein”, which also has protective antioxidan­t properties,’ says dermatolog­ist Dr Tiina Meder. The loss of collagen begins during the peimenopau­se and you can expect to lose 25% in the first three years of menopause alone. Meaning? ‘Slacker, thinner, sallower, drier skin displaying more lines, brown spots and broken capillarie­s,’ says Dr Meder. Meanwhile, comparativ­ely higher levels of male hormones can bring about oiliness and spots; skin can also feel rougher, more sensitive and flushed as your protective barrier is compromise­d. Symptoms vary from woman to woman, and you’re unlikely to experience all at once. But it’s understand­able that you’d want to mitigate them – and with the right regime, you can.

An ability to address multiple, often conflictin­g, issues is what lies at the heart of this new wave of menopausal skincare products. ‘You need powerful collagen boosters and exfoliants at a time when skin becomes more sensitised and redness-prone; and deep hydration while mitigating the risk of breakouts and worsening hot flushes,’ says dermatolog­ist Dr Alia Ahmed, who advises her patients to start on a lowerstren­gth retinol to make it more tolerable to newly reactive skin, or switch to a gentle alternativ­e such as peptides. ‘A potent exfoliant, like glycolic acid, can be replaced with gentler polyhydrox­y acids, while cooling gel moisturise­rs are as hydrating as thick face butters that could congest oily skin,’ she adds.

Menopausal skincare can offer a real service by pulling all this together in one package. Take Prai x M&S’S Menoglow range, which focuses on collagenge­nerating peptides and anti-inflammato­ry centella asiatica with skin-healing essential lipids. Or

Veneffect, whose formulatio­ns are built around peptides and phytoestro­gens (substances found in plants that can replicate the effects of oestrogen), along with plant molecules proven to encourage renewed production of collagen and elastin without irritation. Meanwhile, the White Pine Meno-reverse range from Korres uses the antioxidan­t white pine bark extract, which firms up skin without irritation.

And yet, like the ‘clean beauty’ trend that came before, the booming popularity of the category means that among the products that offer genuine results will be others that don’t. Take ‘cooling mists’, which you’ll find in multiple menopause ranges to ease hot flushes via minty essential oils and, less desirably, stonking levels of alcohol. ‘These kinds of ingredient­s increase the chances of sensitisin­g skin, as do any products that are highly fragranced,’ says dermatolog­ist Dr Emma Wedgeworth, who suggests keeping your usual moisturise­r in the fridge for cooling without the chemicals. As for menopausef­ocused moisturise­rs promising to tackle sagging and dullness? ‘Hydration is important in menopausal skin, but it’ll do nothing to offset the loss of glow and elasticity,’ say Dr Rebecca Booth, Veneffects co-founder. ‘Without ingredient­s proven to restore the compounds that are dependent on high oestrogen levels (elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid), you simply won’t get long-term results.’ Her advice? Invest in evidence-based actives (see over the page for our expertled guide) and give the face oils, butters and serums that don’t feature them a wide berth.

When it comes to menopausal skincare, the bread-and-butter advice you’ll read on these pages every month is truer than ever; ingredient­s trump branding, however inclusive it sounds.

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