OUTER HEBRIDES
What? Sightseeing by bike Where? The Isle of Harris How much? From £130 per night (minimum four nights), Puffin Tiny House; oneoffplaces.co.uk
Cycling in Scotland. How hilly are we talking?
We’ll level with you: there are parts that will leave you puffing, hard. But this is bucket list stuff, and what else are you scoring PBS on your Peloton for? The Hebridean Way cycling route stretches across 185 miles of the Western Isles, 33 of which you’ll find on Harris. And while it’s regarded as among the most challenging of stretches, it’s also among the most rewarding. Sightseeing while cycling (bike-seeing?) doesn’t get much better than rounding the final bend on your descent into Luskentyre – a deserted stretch of white sand that feels more Seychelles than Scotland. You might even be lucky enough to spot a pod of dolphins carving through the sparkling sea. That said, if all those hills have you running for the proverbial, you’ll find easier routes on nearby South Uist and Berneray. Island hopping is a breeze; car ferries run from Ullapool on the mainland and between the islands. Buy the adorably named ‘hopscotch’ ticket.
You had me at ‘Seychelles’. What else can I get up to? Twitchers among you will enjoy the hike to the North Harris Eagle Observatory on Glen Meavaig, where you’ll get the chance to spot a pair of rare golden eagles circling above a hidden valley. For a wildlife encounter of a different kind, head to Scarista beach to surf among the seals, or the famous whale watching spot Huisinis, where you might glimpse a giant
basking shark or a pod of porpoises (visit whaletrail.org to find out the best times of year to spot them).
And where should I stay? We’re calling it: Puffin Tiny House is the cutest shack in the Hebrides. Among the many things to love about this bolthole (which, appropriately, is both miniscule and decorated with puffins) are its close proximity to white sand Scarista Beach, exquisite sea views and your host, Sytske, who’ll tell you where to source the best scallops and pick up a loaf of freshly baked bread (it’s Croft 36 across the road, FYI). Book it in the autumn or winter and you might be lucky enough to spot the northern lights – which can be viewed from Scotland between September and March – while star-gazing through the enormous window. Bucket list stuff, indeed.