PICK YOUR POTION
Target your needs with the best acid for you. ‘It’s all about your skin type and concern,’ says Dr Henry. ‘Use the strongest acid you can tolerate for the most benefits.’ Go big – or go back to the shelf.
TEXTURE AND DULLNESS
Retinoic and glycolic acids are what you should seek out; they turn over past-their-prime cells to leave you glowing.
FINE LINES
Get to know glycolic acid. ‘It’s really great for adult skin because it can also bring in some moisture,’ says Dr Henry. ‘It may even help to stimulate a bit of collagen.’ The lower the concentration, the more likely you can use it each day; the higher the concentration, the less frequently you can use it. Sensitive skin? Lactic and mandelic acids are gentler alternatives for you.
HYPERPIGMENTATION
Another win for glycolic. ‘You’ll see a lot of glycolic acid peels because you really want that superficial exfoliation in this case,’ Dr Henry says. ‘You’ll also see mandelic acid peels and lactic acid peels, but my go-to suggestion is a glycolic acid peel at a higher concentration to shed those dark skin cells.’
ACNE
Salicylic acid is your friend. ‘It’s a BHA that’s a very tiny molecule, so it penetrates the pore where the active oil gland is and sloughs off the clump that’s causing the acne,’ Dr Henry says.
She also recommends a retinoic acid: start with a low concentration a couple of nights a week and build up to every other night, then nightly.