Jim Mottram
Inspired by the books of Arthur Ransome, Jim, 81, learnt to sail on the Norfolk Broads whilst serving in the Merchant Navy. He became a boatbuilder with Rossiter Yachts before buying his Elizathan 23, Reservation, in 1980. He has cruised extensively throughout Europe from Copenhagen to Gibraltar and has sailed round the UK three times. not finished. Two men were working late, towing out the finger berths. I asked if I could moor at one already in place and they readily agreed – no Health & Safety there! I was pleased to again wander around this pleasant town. It has several bright, clean supermarkets, a diversity of other shops and there’s always a good meal to be had ashore.
Seven years after that crossing to Cariño I was able to get further west to Cedeira. It was dawn before I arrived under the cliffs near Punta Candelaria where the wind deserted me and I had to motor the rest of the way into the ria. I didn’t mind, because after a lively trip, I enjoyed passing the smiling high cliffs with trees sweeping down to the waterline. The toy-like Punta Promontorio peeped out as I headed into the beautiful, tree-lined ria to anchor in peaceful surroundings.
The space behind the breakwater is full of small craft moorings, but there is plenty of room outside these to anchor in good holding. There has been talk of a marina here for many years but nothing has come of it. To the east is the town on the banks of a sandy river spanned by two bridges. From here a wide beach stretches round to the wooded slopes on the southern shore. I thought these were pines, but I was told that they were eucalyptus trees. With their fast growth they produce a good, sustainable forestry crop.
Naturally it is not always so idyllic. On my recent landfall here it was blowing freshly and, in the cold light of dawn, the cliffs looked most forbidding. I had picked up a passenger 150 miles out – a racing pigeon, exhausted and close to death. He recovered fully, but had had a rough ride huddled by the tiller. Seeing all this greenery he soon perked up and flew to a more stable base. I had been glad of his comforting presence during this long trick at the helm and was sad to see him fly off without a word of thanks, but I was glad also to arrive in the ria and get the anchor down. After veering a lot of cable, I soon had my head down.
I must have slept soundly for, waking later, I looked out to find it blowing strongly with the ria a sea of white. Fortunately it was good holding and
rode peacefully throughout the night. It can often blow harder than you might expect here as the hills have a funnelling effect and, once back at sea, it is not unusual to find yourself becalmed.
Many yachts hurrying to the Med or the Caribbean only call at Gijón or La Coruña on their way south and by doing so they are missing a lot, as this is a fascinating coast with amazing scenery and culture.