CRUISING THE SAN BLAS

The San Blas is an archipelago on the Caribbean coast of Panama, composed of 378 islands, with around 49 inhabited by the Guna Indians. It is south of the hurricane belt. The best time to cruise the islands is between mid/end of April and mid June, when the weather is at its most settled. The rainy season runs from May to December, and squalls call chocosana can occur, increasing in intensity between mid June and the end of August.

Yachts visiting Panama need a one-year cruising permit which costs around £166 (US$200) and is available at larger ports of entry. A further cruising permit is needed for the San Blas, which usually costs £16.60 (US$20) per yacht plus £16.60 (US$20) per person (children are exempt) and is valid for a month. It can be bought at Isla Porvenir, the port of entry for the San Blas. There can also be an anchoring charge, although this depends on the islands visited. We were only charged once. On average, this costs £8.30 (US$10) per month. You can expect to pay a fee at some of the more popular islands between Puerto Perme and Isla Tigre.

Many of the charts for the San Blas are inaccurate so you will need eyeball navigation when entering the anchorages to avoid the reefs and sandbanks. The Panama Cruising Guide by Eric Bauhaus, 5th edition (Sailors Publications, £60), is considered the best resource.

It is advisable to be self-sufficient when cruising San Blas. Diesel is rare and petrol is in short supply. Make sure you carry plenty of low-denomination US dollars. Prohibited activities include kite surfing, drones, surfing, scuba diving, chartering, and spearfishing.

MINKE LOHRENGEL

Minke and her partner Jaap Bel bought their Chiquita 46 ketch Eastern Stream in 2013 with an unfinished hull and no masts. By 2016, they were ready to set sail, and have since sailed from Europe to the Caribbean, explored Colombia, transitted the Panama Canal and cruised to Chile via Easter Island. They are currently in Patagonia.