Dag Pike discovers the hidden gems of Plymouth EXPLORING PLYMOUTH
Dag Pike discovers the many sides of this Devonshire port as he ventures into the city’s harbour and explores its rivers and bays
Plymouth is a port steeped in P history. This was where the Pilgrims’ Mayflower sailed from in search of the New World and where Sir Francis Drake famously played bowls before heading out and defeating the Spanish Armada. It is a big naval port, and the Royal Navy rules here, but don’t let that put you off. Known as Britain’s Ocean City, Plymouth is awash with marinas and there are many rivers to explore, whilst ashore the old parts of Plymouth still remain ripe for discovery along with shops, restaurants, pubs and other attractions.
If you are approaching from offshore then the grey and statuesque Eddystone lighthouse, nine miles south of Rame Head, will be your guide. Once inside Plymouth Sound, the huge stone breakwater is soon in view, with the Eastern and Western Channel on either side. These channels are the main entrance to Plymouth harbour.
But before you sail straight for the city, it is worth exploring the twin Cornish villages of Kingsand and Cawsand, found just past Penlee Point. Cawsand Bay is well protected from the west, although it does get crowded on a summer’s day. On a recent cruise, we anchored and went ashore. This area, like many parts of Cornwall, has a rich fishing and smuggling heritage. Thousands of casks of contraband spirits were landed here in the 18th and 19th centuries. The only trace now is the remains of old pilchard cellars and boat stores lining the seafront. It was pleasant strolling the narrow streets of the villages before the enticing smell of freshly baked sourdough bread drew us into The Old Bakery in Garrett Street. Loaded up with fresh bread and cinnamon buns, we made our way back to the boat before lifting the anchor and pointing the boat towards Plymouth.
With the breakwater behind us, the historic island fortress of Drake’s Island came into view. Yachts bound up the river Tamar usually bear left here through The Bridge. This shortcut is a narrow channel with a minimum depth of 1.3 metres, marked by beacons fitted with tide gauges.
We were heading to the city’s eastern side, having booked a berth at Sutton Harbour Marina, located at the original Plymouth Harbour.
Access is via the Sutton Lock so we called them on VHF Ch 12 while tying fenders to the guard rails. Once through we motored to our berth. It was time to explore one of the oldest parts of Plymouth – the Barbican, adjacent to Sutton Harbour.
Amazingly, this part of Plymouth escaped the German Luftwaffe during the Second World War, and many of the Tudor and Jacobean buildings still remain. Once home to Plymouth’s fishmarket, the area now has bespoke shops, restaurants, cafes and galleries. Artists like Beryl Cook and Robert Lenkiewicz were inspired by these surroundings, and the remains of Lenkiewicz’s now weather-beaten Barbican mural can still be seen.
ATTRACTIONS IN ABUNDANCE
We wandered down the main Southside Street before exploring the narrow and cobbled New Street, one of the city’s oldest thoroughfares. It is worth taking the time to look up at the centuries-old buildings here, each one with unique features. When our necks could take no more, we walked through a narrow alleyway and stumbled onto the Elizabeth Gardens, with its low box hedges and colourful flowers and herbs. A stone seat next to the fountain provided respite
Plymouth is awash with marinas and there are many rivers to explore, whilst ashore the old parts of Plymouth still remain ripe for discovery