The pull of the tides
Nick Leather puts his skippering skills to the test while cruising the Channel Islands
We couldn’t have asked for anything more as we registered 10 knots speed over ground as our 1988 33ft Westerly Storm, Musketeer, sliced through the waves towards Guernsey. Blessed with fine weather and a superb Force 4-5 wind, we beam reached across the sea and finally passed St Martin’s Point and steered a course to Castle Cornet at the extremity of the St Peter Port entrance – once the harbour’s main defence against invaders.
This was champagne sailing, and all on board enjoyed it judging by the wide smiles on everyone’s faces. Keith, Colin and John were all experienced sailors, and although my cousin Robert was still a novice, he proved a more than capable crew on this five-day voyage. This was also my first time skippering in the Channel Islands. On entering port we finally lowered our sails and having secured Musketeer’s fenders, berthed alongside the waiting pontoon. From here we had excellent views of the harbour. We were also able to witness the effects of the large tidal range. Being currently on springs, we observed the spectacular change from high water to low water throughout our stay in Guernsey. There was an 8m difference, making the harbour at high water seem like a different place compared to low water. In fact, throughout our trip we were amazed at the strength of the tides and gained a healthy respect for the laws of nature.
This was the penultimate day of a whistle-stop tour of the Channel Islands, a trip carefully chosen not only for scenic views, good bars and welcoming marinas, but the opportunity to practise a bit of navigation such as courses to steer, pilotage and passage planning. The effort spent on an RYA shore-based navigation course some years ago proved eminently helpful as we negotiated fairways and channels straddled with outlying spiky rocks and often strong cross tides.
On the first day we had departed Portland harbour early and made for the Shambles Easterly cardinal before transiting the 60 miles across the English Channel to Cherbourg. As we crossed it was eerily quiet in the shipping lanes. Where were all those big ships? Eventually we arrived at the western entrance of Cherbourg, passing the dome-shaped tower Fort de l’ouest. Care was required to negotiate past the harbour entrance as the tide sluiced around the walls with vigour and tugged hard at a port channel marker. It was to be our first experience of the sheer power of the tides and the need to work passages out carefully.
The next day Alderney was beckoning. We used the westerly stream to sail to Braye Harbour. We struck a full 12 knots over the ground, feeling like a ballistic missile as we passed Cap de la Hague before sailing
a short section of the Alderney Race with its bizarre rolling motion on the sea surface. That evening we moored on a swinging mooring, but the wind turned into the harbour entrance and made staying there untenable.
Even so, there was time for a run ashore. Colin and Rob went to investigate some of the immense concrete fortifications, a reminder of the German occupation of the Channel Islands during the Second World War. Graffiti on the walls still survives 80 years later.
Jersey was our next stop, and taking the south-going stream we experienced a sound northeasterly Force 3. The sea was surprisingly gentle and even the infamous Banc de la Schôle was far from intimidating. At approximately three miles northeast of La Corbière Lighthouse, we witnessed a lifeboat going to assist a cruiser which had become entangled in lobster pots.
We finally rounded Passage Rock as the wind rose and we had a cracking beat up the western passage, having set clearing lines.
We spent the night in St Helier Marina and indulged in a pint of the local Liberation beer. Our final stop was Guernsey, where we ventured into the town with its continental flair and pretty seafront, before pointing the bow back to Portland. The shipping lanes had reverted back to their busy selves on the return crossing. As we approached the delightful limestone coast of Dorset we were rewarded with a beautiful and captivating sunset.
What did I learn from such an exhilarating trip? Preparation is key to enjoying this delightful cruising ground. Good pilotage and passage planning are essential to work the tides to your advantage and avoid the multitude of outlying rocks. The only thing I would have changed is to stay a little longer and explore each island a bit more. It was a view shared by the crew. Somehow by packing it all in we felt we had slightly cheated ourselves. In the future, with less than a week to spare, I plan to sail to a couple of islands and give them the attention they deserve. It’s a good reason to return!