Drying Out
BILGE KEELS
A bilge keel boat clearly has the advantage of being able to dry out upright. The dos and don’ts are fairly obvious:
■ A flat, or nearly flat, regular surface is called for – hard sand is ideal. Rock and boulders are to be avoided. Mud is fine so long as you have no plans to get ashore.
■ There is a risk of bumping on the bottom as the boat is drying out and refloating, if there is any swell, or passing traffic creating wash. Not a problem in soft mud.
■ Consider how you’re going to get off and
on the boat. Will you need a ladder?
■ If the surface is a bit muddy, leave a bucket of water handy to clean your boots when you come aboard.
■ If leaving the boat, lay out an anchor, just
in case you don’t get back in time.
■ Remember that when the boat’s dried out,
you won’t be able to use the heads!
LIFTING KEELS
Like bilge keels, a lifting keel allows the boat to dry out upright. All the same considerations apply as for bilge keels, but also make sure the rudder will be OK. On a muddy bottom, the mud can start oozing up into the heads and the engine cooling intake, and it’s wise to close seacocks – but don’t forget to open them again! Remember that when motoring in very shallow water with the keel up, sand and mud can get sucked into the engine cooling water strainer. Keep the revs down and check the strainer afterwards.
LEGS
If your boat is equipped with legs, most of the same principles as for bilge keels apply. A soft muddy bottom is unsuitable. The boat should rest on one leg and the keel, so if the legs are adjustable, make sure they aren’t too long. If the bottom is a bit soft, a leg can be inserted into a metal bucket on a lanyard to spread the load. If there’s a preferred side of lean, put heavy weights like water or fuel cans on that side of the boat.