RECOMMENDED BY Norman Kean
Most yachts sailing round Ireland head straight from Dingle to the Aran Islands, missing the
Shannon. This is a pity, since the estuary is a lovely cruising ground between rural shores.
It is also an important commercial port, but the shipping scarcely disturbs its peace. The town of Kilrush on the north shore has a marina behind a lock gate, offering perfect shelter, and there are many anchorages. The muddy creeks of the tributary rivers offer opportunities for exploration. The prettiest of these is Paradise, on a winding channel at the confluence of the River Fergus. Paradise House, now a ruin, was the home of William Henn, who challenged unsuccessfully for the America’s Cup in 1886 with his cutter Galatea. The 31m yacht had a draft of 4m, and of course no engine, yet Henn sailed her up to Paradise, through a labyrinth of shallow channels.
The mouth of the Shannon is 40 miles from the marina at Dingle in west Kerry, and 150 miles from Cork harbour. The south-west coast is a fabulous cruising ground in itself, and the Shannon estuary offers a tranquil and gentle contrast to the cliffs and ocean swell. The tide at the two-mile narrows south of Carrigaholt runs at up to 4 knots and can raise overfalls, but the streams are less in the upper reaches.
NThe marina at Kilrush is an ideal place to winter a boat, and Shannon airport is a short bus ride away.
South & West Coasts of Ireland Sailing Directions, edited by Norman Kean (Irish Cruising Club, 15th edition 2020, £37.50). Admiralty 1819, 1547, 1548, 1549, Imray C55 yet it is also a wonderful, natural cruising haven, with all-round protection from winds and swell. Much of it lies within the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.
Anchor at Dale and explore this stunning coastline of craggy headlands and golden sands. Then head up the estuary to one of the marinas at Milford Haven or Neyland, or continue under the bridge into the River Cleddau. Enjoy a meal at Lawrenny Quay or glide on into another world of tranquility under wooded banks. With shoal draught or dinghy there are several days of exploring to be had further upriver, far from the reach of Atlantic storm. Milford Haven is well-marked, but stay outside the deep-water channels, keep watch for ship movements and beware the wash from working tugs. In strong southwesterlies avoid Middle Channel and Chapel Rocks between the two entrance channels. In these conditions the ebb can also create dangerous seas close to St Ann’s Head – head for the edge of the East Channel where it should be a bit quieter. There are some protected habitats within the estuary where anchoring is not allowed. Download the Leisure User Guide at www.mhpa.co.uk.
N