EXPERT OPINION
WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY...
NICK VASS B,SC B,ED HND FRINA MCMS Dipmarsur YS, Marine Surveyor www.omega-yachtservices.co.uk
Like all Beneteaus, the Oceanis 351 is stylish and also comfortable below. I often discover delamination on decks, so look for cracks. The balsa core stiffening material has a tendency to shrink and decay with time, causing the deck to flex underfoot. The 351’s hull is stiffened by a tray moulding that is bonded into the inside of the hull with paste. This moulding is notorious for coming away. Check for cracks and gaps around the edges of the moulding in the bilge below the saloon and forecabin sole. If left the hull will flex and you will begin to find cracks on the outside of the hull and on the deck. The moulding was lightly and inadequately bonded into place but you can fix this by gluing it back properly with tabbings/bondings of cloth, matting and resin. Beneteau has attracted attention because of keel issues but any light to medium displacement cruiser will suffer keel loss if run aground. Check for cracks in the moulding around keel studs. Like most yachts of this age, the 351s can be leaky. The bedding compound between hull and keel tends to last 20 years before it begins to break down, as does the sealant that holds in windows and seals grabrails and cleats. Stanchions will become loose and let in water. Acrylic windows and hatches will be crazing, batteries will break down, sails wear out and hull to saildrive diaphragms will need replacement. The 351 was originally fitted with the Volvo Penta MD2030, which is a great engine. The cooling system does have a tendency to clog up.
BEN SUTCLIFFE-DAVIES, Marine Surveyor and full member of the Yacht Brokers Designers & Surveyors Association (YDSA) www.bensutcliffemarine.co.uk
Like so many of the early Oceanis range, the 351 was a reasonably well structured yacht of her time with certainly more than the average amount of materials used in her build. Like many boats of this design and build, there are several areas you should look closely at before deciding to buy. Firstly, examine the backing support for stanchions. It is rare to find one that doesn’t flex unless they have been reinforced. The cockpit has inlaid teak; be aware that many are a ply veneer and will now be at the point of replacement. Make sure the transom cockpit seat is tied on, as I know of one owner who lost his seat overboard as it wasn’t secure. Look carefully at the underside of the cockpit seat as often the moulding is soft and flexing. Pay attention to the seacocks and look closely at where the internal moulding is relieved to allow fitting of the skin fittings to the outer hull. I have frequently found that the bonding paste in these areas has become detached. This can often be a subtle red flag of previous groundings or other structural issues developing. Lastly examine the keel support structure. Generally it is a pretty good-sized matrix but always look at the condition of fastenings and size of backing washes. I’ve been involved with a number that have had to have new bolts and larger backing pads as the originals were distorted. As always, if in doubt, get a professional opinion.