World ARC ‘refugee’ cruisers caught out by pandemic
DAN BOWER WAS ONE OF 30 SKIPPERS FACING REFUGEE STATUS AS PACIFIC BORDERS CLOSED
Pushing off from the Galapagos Islands on 4 March, COVID-19 was only starting to affect Europe. The first villages were being quarantined in Italy, and a handful of cases were emerging in the UK. it was a blip on the news, and did nothing to rock our happy World ARC fleet.
The trickles of news that came through at first while we were at sea were largely sanitised: many of our crew make it clear that they don’t want news from home – there is nothing we can do. As the situation deteriorated more rapidly, the view from home was ‘The world has gone mad; enjoy your blissful ignorance while you can.’
Our first updates concerned small changes to entry protocol, but the expectation was still to be able to clear into French Polynesia.
With 500 miles to go, the bombshell dropped – the World ARC was ‘suspended’. It was not possible to continue; most of the Pacific was closed to us and, even if the situation reversed, we’d be unlikely to make the weather window in the Indian Ocean.
World ARC worked tirelessly to keep us up to date, and lobby for our interests. However, when we received the message: ‘We are working hard with the local authorities in French Polynesia to welcome you as planned, and not treat you as refugees and set you back off to sea,’ it did incite a certain degree of panic.
From here on things changed quickly. Our rendezvous switched from Hiva Oa to Nuku Hiva – a bigger bay with more facilities and a police presence. The islands are small, with very limited supplies by freighter and the local ‘hospitals’ may have only a handful of beds. Feelings are particularly strong given that the population was decimated by European disease in the 1800s.
Our fleet was diverted again, to Tahiti this time under the request of the French authorities and the Coastguard, adding an extra 700 miles on to the passage. All pretence of a fun and relaxing cruise had now gone, and in a world of rapidly closing borders we were pleased to be assured of being granted entry, to anywhere. Territorial waters were now closed to all vessels except for the World ARC and Puddle Jump rallies.
The main consideration for many was the news of swift enforced repatriation of all non-residents, which could mean leaving the yachts at anchor in the bay, and also the problem of provisions.
What awaited us in Tahiti was uncertain and if the air space is shut down the last option would be the long way home through the Atlantic via Cape Horn.